South West Coast Path — May 1996

After a couple of pints of Strong Country Bitter (originally from Strong's of Romsey (near Southampton) but now part of Whitbread), poured straight from the keg, I returned to the hostel to find that I was sharing the room with two Australians who claimed that they were over for a vintage car rally at Beaulieu. One was from Queensland so we had a pleasant chat about preserved steam in Queensland. I'm told the static engine park at Redbank has been closed and the engines are being returned to steam.

Day 5 - Tuesday, May 14 — A day out on Waverley

At last a sailing day. I rose late to avoid the 90 school children who were having breakfast at eight, but was still out into a fine morning by half past and went round to the B&B to dump my pack before proceeding to the pier. There was no sign of Waverley, still, it was only nine o'clock and I could see something in the distance over towards Poole. I wandered out towards Peveril Point where I began to be concerned that whatever it was that I could see to the north was not increasing in either size or proximity. Looking east, I could just make out the Isle of Wight and .. just south of the island, a ship. If that was the Waverley, she'd be pushed to get here in time. I drifted back along the road, glanced over my shoulder and there was Waverley steaming into the bay. Once again I had underestimated her speed (as I often do when awaiting her arrival at Largs).

At the end of the pier, I crept up on Jim while he was talking to other passengers and was rewarded with a decent double-take, not for the first time today. I asked what time we would get to Tarbert and was told I'd got the month wrong and would have to make do with Portsmouth Harbour.

Pier toll gate at Swanage with Waverley at the end of the pier	Swanage seafront from the Waverley	Swanage pier and seafront

Bournemouth with pier in the middle

We were across at Bournemouth in under forty minutes and berthed alongside a narrow pontoon with barely enough room to deploy the gangways. The hose was put ashore for fresh water, up the stair on the main deck of the pier. Most of the crowd on the pier appeared to descend the stair and join the boat, which was a relief as there had not been many aboard from Swanage.

A pleasant cruise along the coast and across to the Yarmouth on the Isle of Wight. From there, we crossed the Solent without seeing much of interest in the way of shipping. The trip around Portsmouth Harbour and Naval Dockyard left me with the impression that most of the Royal Navy spends most of its time in port, including two of the three aircraft carriers. Some of the passengers seemed quite excited by it all, cameras clicking at a rate to gladden the hearts of the film manufacturers. I wondered if there were any foreign spies aboard.

Two sizeable ships left while we were in the harbour, Normandy Ferries “Duc de Normandie” en route for Caen and a freighter “Nova Scotia” registered in Valetta!

Approaching Portsmouth. The hovercraft is heading for Ryde on the Isle of Wight	Portsmouth - Fishbourne (Isle of Wight) ferries	HMS Warrior and a cross-harbour ferry

HMS Victory in Portsmouth Harbour	Brittany Ferries' "Duc de Normandie"	HMS Exeter (D89, Type 42, 1980), HMS Westminster (F237, Type 23, 1993) and the aircraft carrier HMS Invincible (R05, 1977)

The return to Swanage was uneventful, arriving a little late but who cares. I hung around to watch the evening cruise depart before dining on cod and chips followed by a pint of Ringwood Forty-Niner which did not impress. Then it was back up the hill to the B&B, clean up and go to bed.

Waverley reversing off Swanage Pier for the evening cruise

Day 6 - Wednesday, May 15 Swanage to Kingswear on Waverley

Another fine morning. I was up just after seven and I had a quick cup of tea while washing and packing before exchanging pleasantries with the landlady (who did not offer me a piece in my hand) and setting off for the pier. Waverley at the pier was a pleasant picture as I sat in the sun consuming my breakfast milk.

When I reached the boat, I noticed that they were taking water from a domestic sized tap on the end of a 3/8ths diameter pipe, and was told that they had been doing so all night and the tanks were still not full! A leisurely cruise across to Bournemouth, plenty of time to load passengers then back across the bay, past Swanage and along the coast. I took a few photos of the shore for a reminder of my pains on Sunday.

St Alban's Head + the coast west with Chapman's Pool	Kimmeridge Bay, site of the UK's first on-shore oil well	Lulworth Cove on the left, Gad Cliff on the right, the dip in the middle is Arish Mell in the MOD Lulworth Ranges

Lulworth Cove	The coast from White Nothe to the Durdle Door, west of Lulworth Cove	Isle of Portland from the north east

When we arrived at Weymouth, the Condor Ferries vessel “Havelet” was lying behind the loading ramp, blocking the berth Waverley should have used, and we had to go a bit upstream and squeeze in in front of the loading ramp, with a helpful nudge from the (padded) front end of the Harbour Master's launch. It was then announced that as we were berthed in a “restricted area” and only those making the one-way journey to Weymouth would be allowed ashore. The rest of the passengers had to make do with watching the crew loading stores.

An awkward berth for the Waverley. Condor Ferries "Havelet" is where we should have been.		Sail Training ship "Lord Nelson" at the quayside behind the Harbour Master's launch which was required to push Waverley in and out of her berth.
	"Lord Nelson"

The Nothe Fort	Old east coast fishing/trading vessel LT472 "Excelsior" leaving Weymouth Old Harbour

Our departure was interesting. By winching in the bow rope, the stern was moved out just far enough to allow the Harbour Master's launch to come inside and push the stern further out clear of the ferry loading ramp. We then reversed into the river and stopped while the launch put its nose to the bow and lined us up to clear the harbour mouth. And off we went, reversing into Weymouth Bay.

As we steamed down the east side of the Isle of Portland, we passed the catamaran “Condor” heading for Weymouth from the Channel Islands (Guernsey?). These catamarans are an impressive sight at full speed with twin wakes rising almost as high as the passenger deck. Round the Bill of Portland and across Lyme Bay to meet the coast again near Brixham, from where it is a short run to the mouth of the Dart.

Approaching the east side of Portland Bill	Lighthouse at Portland Bill, Pulpit Rock to the left	A headland + the entrance to the River Dart

The entry to the Dart is impressive. It passes between wooded hills, widens only slightly and the channel is immediately marked on both sides by lines of yachts. The town of Dartmouth lies straight ahead with Kingswear peeping round the hill on the starboard side. The Kingswear quay is at right angles to the channel, close confined by moored pleasure craft, and we required the assistance of a small tug to align Waverley before reversing in.

We had arrived a bit early and rather than wait forty minutes to watch the departure of the train for Paignton, John, Myra, Ashley and Mark decided to seek out their accommodation. Since I was masquerading as one of Ashley's friends who had not turned up for the cruise, I went with them, crossing the Dart to Dartmouth on the passenger ferry “Kingswear Belle”.

The River Dart, Dartmouth ahead and Kingswear on the right	Kingswear with the passenger ferry "Kingswear Belle" at the end of the quay	Two shots of the Waverley at Kingswear Pier

Kingswear, Waverley and the Dartmouth - Kingswear car ferry	Waverley leaving Kingswear for evening cruise. Note the latest thing in bow thrusters	Two shots of Waverley heading out of the Dart

After dumping the luggage at the B&B we returned to the river. The others went down to the mouth in search of a good photo opportunity while I stayed nearer the town to watch Waverley depart for an evening cruise. I then dined on grey mullet in a seafood sauce and was not impressed. It seemed like bland mackerel and needed the sauce. After that, it was a wander around Dartmouth, a couple of pints and off to bed.

Day 7 - Thursday, May 16 — Kingswear to Falmouth

It was disappointing to wake to an overcast morning after the fine weather of yesterday but that's the way it goes. After a quick but hearty breakfast, I sped down to catch the ferry across to Kingswear. It was fairly full of school children, most of whom boarded buses at the far side. I went up the hill a bit to take photos of Waverley at the quay before going aboard. We reversed out into the channel and the small tug reappeared to apply its bow to the stern and push us round. I was amazed at the speed of this operation until it was pointed out to me that there was another tug at the bow.

Waverley at the quayside at Kingswear with Dartmouth on the far side of the River Dart

As we reached the open sea, there was a bit of a sea running, the wind having increased somewhat overnight. We rolled a bit as we headed straight out to sea, and a bit more as we turned to head for Start Point. There was an easier motion with the sea behind and it was definitely a pleasant cruise along the coast but the Jeremiahs amongst us had already begun to speculate whether the scheduled cruise could be fulfilled.

They were proved right when we reached Mevagissey and found an uncomfortable swell across the harbour entrance. The Skipper decided (very wisely) that it would be foolhardy to tie up at the end of the breakwater and in the blink of an eye, we were going hard astern, leaving quite a large crowd on the pier. Richard (from Leeds) opined that getting the bow rope ashore constitutes a call but I'm not convinced.

Entrance to the River Dart + Mevagissey Harbour	Mevagissey from a rapidly retreating Waverley	Cornish fishing village Mevagissey

We headed due south for a bit, out to sea then west to close with the coast again just south of Falmouth, then south again to turn off The Manacles and return to the mouth of the Fal. At this point, we were told that we couldn't get a berth in Falmouth (my destination for this evening), and would drop anchor in the bay off St Mawes, opposite Falmouth which we did just in time to see the last ferry to Falmouth depart.

A small boat came out (the St Mawes - Place ferry) but had difficulty securing alongside due to a slight swell and a high coaming on the boat. The Skipper jumped in and went off to inspect the pier with a view to getting Waverley alongside. This must have been impractical as when he returned, a further attempt was made to secure the small boat alongside. This time it was successful and the small boat was quickly filled, me nearly first. Shortly after we got ashore, the Falmouth ferry returned but was not going back to Falmouth.

St Mawes, which is separated from Falmouth by the Carrick Roads	Waverley off St Mawes with the useless Falmouth - St Mawes ferry

Now, the arrangement was that the last coach to Dartmouth would call at St Austell station to drop those who had other plans. One bus had already gone but the second needed just three more passengers to fill the bus and the driver offered to go via the station so I deserted my friends (well, I had a train to catch) and jumped aboard. At St Austell, Just before my train was due, the last bus arrived and Richard gleefully informed me that Waverley had now acquired a berth in Falmouth and I could have gone across after all. I was none too pleased!

I changed trains at Truro for Falmouth Docks, transferring from a 125 to an antiquated DMU, probably older than the Strathclyde stock and unrefurbished. (Adverts for the Falmouth line show a sprinter!) from the station there, it is a short walk up to Pendennis Castle where the Youth Hostel is in the Victorian barracks. Before going in, I went to admire the view and was rewarded with a sight of Waverley leaving Falmouth Docks! Later in the evening, I went out for a smoke and a walk round the castle grounds and watched Waverley return from the evening cruise (without illuminated funnels!) and apparently anchor again off St Mawes about a quarter to ten. I left her there and went to bed.

Waverley leaving Falmouth Docks for an evening cruise	Waverley heading up the Carrick Roads + Falmouth from Pendennis Castle

Day 8 - Friday, May 17 — A rest day in Falmouth

Time for a non-travelling day, so I had a leisurely breakfast in the hostel, in the company of a lad from Thunder Bay, Ontario and another from Switzerland. When I went out, it was overcast and almost not raining but as I walked round Pendennis Head I decided that it was raining after all and put on my waterproof jacket for the first time this holiday.

By walking slowly around Falmouth, I managed to pass most of the morning until it was a respectable time for lunch. I tried my first Cornish Pasty and decided that I prefer Forfar Bridies. After a leisurely couple of pints I visited the Maritime Museum which proved more interesting than I had expected, before returning to Pendennis Castle and the hostel to clean up for a night on the town.

Which comprised a large cod and chips. I'd had enough about half way through it do I started feeding a one-legged seagull. It had problems competing with the others on the ground so I amused myself by devising stratagems to see that it got more than its fair share. It quickly learned that when I put my arm down, I was about to throw a morsel up in the air and it took off in pole position.

Day 9 - Saturday, May 18 — Falmouth to Coverack

It was grey and overcast this morning, but not quite nearly raining. I hit the road just after eight and passed Maenporth about nine, the refreshment kiosk was not open. At Rosemullion Head, I briefly considered cutting across the neck, after all who would know, but didn't. I reached Helford Passage at five to eleven, no sign of ferry or landing stage, and enquired of a chap nearby who turned out to be the ferryman. Apparently in an easterly wind, it is not a good idea to have the landing stage on the beach so he rowed me out to the ferry (a small launch - 12 passengers) and took me to the other side.

As I walked from the ferry into Helford, the first thing of interest was a pub but I managed to restrain myself and bought a pint of milk in the shop round the next corner. And round another corner, there was a tea-room but I kept walking. At St Anthony-in-Meneage, I asked directions for the stepping stones across Gillan Harbour from a man on the beach who was decorating an eight oared boat “Helford” with white and yellow garlands. I found the stones clear of the still-falling water and made my way gingerly across. There was not much of Gillan or Flushing visible from the path and I continued round Nare Point to Porthallow. The tea-room on the beach was closed so I had to seek refreshment in the pub. When I set off again, I passed the Taranaki Tea-room just round the corner.

Falmouth Bay featuring Rosemullion Head, Pendennis Head and Zone Point, from Nare Head	Pendennis Head from Nare Point	Entrance to Gillan Harbour with the Helford River mouth beyond, with Dennis Head between, from Nare Point

From Porthallow to Porthoustock, the route follows minor roads and I don't know how it happened but the roads I followed didn't match the ones on the map. However I passed through the small village and by road and field path, recovered the coast as expected just before Redpath's Dean Quarry. Once through that blasted landscape, it was a straightforward walk into Coverack and up a steep hill to the hostel as a few spots of rain fell.

I booked a bed for the night with evening meal (spaghetti bolognese) and breakfast. By the time I had cleaned up it was definitely raining. Despite this, after dinner I went down for a look round the small harbour and a couple of pints in the Paris Hotel before bed.

Day 10 - Sunday, May 19 — Coverack to Mullion Cove

It was still raining in the morning. During breakfast, we discussed the prospect for the day. Opinions varied between rain all day and clear by eleven. Either way, the walking still had to be done, so I decided that the waterproof jacket was necessary but I could do without the trousers. By the time I had covered a couple of miles, I realised that I'd made a mistake and took advantage of the shelter of an abandoned coastguard lookout on Black Head to correct the error. The fact that nettles had encroached on parts of the path added weight to the rain.

When I continued, I was pretty impervious to the weather (and the nettles) so, of course, the rain slackened and had gone off by the time I reached Kennack Sands but I couldn't be bothered undressing. Thus I arrived at Cadgewith at lunchtime in wet weather gear, took tea at “The Cellars”, a pleasant small restaurant with open courtyard, and continued with waterproofs stowed away.

My first sight of the lifeboat station at Kilcobben Cove was a shock. It is perched on the cliff top about 90' above the sea with a very steep ramp going down. On closer inspection, however, I was relieved to find that this was the top station of an inclined railway with a cage to take the crew down to the real boathouse much nearer sea level. It was not much further to The Lizard, passing the old Lloyd's Telegraph Station and the lighthouse before reaching the car park, tea-room, gift shops etc. Given that it was now a fine Sunday afternoon, I was surprised how few people were about, they could be counted in tens rather than hundreds.

The new Lifeboat Station at Kilcobben Cove

Housel Bay to the east of The Lizard + Polbream Cove and The Lizard from the east	The Lizard Lighthouse which is just to the east of The Lizard	The Lizard from the west, with Polpeor Cove and the old Lifeboat Station below

After The Lizard, I began to slow down, feeling resentful each time the path took me down into a cove with the inevitable slog back up on the other side. It was well after six when I approached Mullion Cove, looking very attractive in the evening sunlight, and I could not raise any enthusiasm to go looking for reasonably priced accommodation and headed for the nearest hotel.

Which was the two star Mullion Cove Hotel, and even that was up a hill. I wandered into reception and asked for the cheapest bed and breakfast rate. £30 seemed a bit expensive but I took it. Well, I was tired. Single room, not en suite but exclusive use of a bathroom just down the hall. When I went to use it, someone was in it and when I did get in, there wasn't a lot of hot water. The tea things were somewhat limited, three tea bags, two coffees, one hot chocolate, two white and two brown sugars, only one UHT milk and no bikkies! Still, there was a colour television and a teasmaid (without instructions) so no doubt it met the standards for its two start and three crowns.

I went round to the public bar for a couple of pints, a pleasant place with large windows through which I could admire the sunlit evening, and Boddington's. While there, a fox ran across the car park.

Day 11 - Monday, May 20 — Mullion Cove to Penzance

I got up early to use my bathroom before anyone else got there. Someone did try the door while I was in the bath so it was worth the effort. I switched on the television for the news and weather, showers are forecast but the sun is shining outside. Breakfast was from half past eight but there was a coach party of German walkers having breakfast at eight so I went in at quarter past. Service was a little slow but the meal was all right.

I was packed, paid and on the road half past nine. Near Poldhu Cove, there is a monument to Marconi who sent the first transatlantic radio signal from this spot to Signal Hill, St John's, Newfoundland which I visited in 1989. There is nothing left of Marconi's base at either end but there was a notice here of a planning application by what I took to be a group of Cornish radio enthusiasts to erect a radio mast.

Marconi Memorial near Poldhu Cove + the end of Cornwall	Predannack Head and Mullion Island

From Gunwalloe to Looe Bar, I walked on the beach (rather than on the low cliff top), reasonable underfoot but not as firm as the Curran Strand at Portrush. At Porthleven, I had a Cornish pasty and tea for lunch. The pasty was large with a bready rather than a pastry casing which defeated me but not before I had extracted all the contents. Presumably this was a more traditional pasty but I still prefer Forfar Bridies.

It was steady progress to Praa Sands where I took liquid refreshment (no, not beer, I wanted milk but the shop had none so I settled for a chocolate flavoured milk drink). A couple of miles further on at Prussia Cove, I was accosted by a couple who asked if I had a car, they had noticed me earlier passing through Porthleven and were impressed by my progress. From Cudden Point, I had my first sight of St Michael's Mount and knew I was on the home straight.

A long shot of the Cornish coast	St Michael's Mount from Cudden Point

There were notices about path diversions at Perranuthnoe, due to coastal erosion, but the net result seemed to be that I went round the inland side of a field rather than the shore side. A field apparently full of rotting cauliflowers until I noticed that some, but only some, had been harvested. And then I was in Marazion, end of path, and starting to rain. Time for a pint of milk before the three miles along road and railway into Penzance, which I managed in just over an hour. Not bad after 60 miles in three days.

I could have done without the final mile and a third to the youth hostel but I managed it and booked in for three nights. After a shower and change, I had no energy to go out again to the pub, besides, it was raining. There was another energetic turner-overer in the bunk above me.

Day 12 - Tuesday, May 21 — Land's End

I awoke to a beautiful morning. After breakfast, I went down to the bus station for the 09:20 to Land's End. This went along to Newlyn then up an amazing hill before meandering along rural roads to Land's End. The approach there is horrible. Acres of car park, grotty funfair and a large (but low) hotel. I ambled around a bit, taking a few photos, then headed south on the coast path round Gwenapp Head to Porthcurno. This is the site of the open-air theatre Miniack Theatre where I decided not to pay £1.70 for a look, thinking I could see it from the cliff on the other side of the cove. This proved not to be the case, it is carefully hidden from freeloading eyes.

The First and Last House in England, at Dr Syntax's Head, Land's End	The Longships Light	The hotel at Land's End on Dr Johnson's Head from the north

The hotel at Land's End on Dr Johnson's Head from the south	The Longships Light	Land's End tourist trap from the south

The sands at Porthcurno. The Miniack Theatre is hidden in the cliffs on the other side	The Harbour, Newlyn

By the time I reached St Loy's Cove, it had clouded over and I started to imagine the odd spot of rain as I sat airing my feet. By the time I had reached the next headland, Boscawen Point, it was definitely raining. The effect was not to bad as the rain was on my back, walkers in the other direction were having much less fun.

I stopped for tea at Lamorna Cove, and believed the rain was off when I came out but it wasn't and didn't go off until I was nearly at Mousehole. It was road into Mousehole (a pretty harbour) and then to Newlyn, the fishing capital of Cornwall. I wandered briefly around the harbour before continuing along the esplanade into Penzance then on to the hostel and bed.

Day 13 - Wednesday May 22 — A Visit to St Ives

There was a lot of rain-type noise when I woke about six but it had diminished by the time I got up and looked out. Perhaps the trees had exaggerated the effect. It was still raining a bit after breakfast so I decided not to walk along to St Michael's Mount and instead went to the station for the 09:57 train to St Ives.

The train from St Ives (153392) came in on time but was immediately abandoned by the crew and withdrawn from service with a faulty speedometer. A taxi was provided for myself and the other would-be passenger. She was going to St Ives to visit the branch of the Tate Gallery and asked the taxi driver to take her there. I said I wasn't bothered where I went. As we passed the railway station, the driver reset the meter so I bailed out when we got caught in a traffic jam.

It was still raining. I wandered through the town and into the museum which I found quite interesting if a little disordered. This easily absorbed an hour and a half after which it was a respectable time for lunch, which was a Ploughman's in a pub, The Sloop, which claims to have been around since the 14th century. I suspect it has had several total rebuilds in that time.

Clodgy Point and Porthmeor Beach, St Ives	St Ives Head with Godrevy Point and Island	St Ives between the Harbour and Porthmeor Beach

St Ives across the Harbour		St Ives Harbour

St Ives Harbour	St Ives railway station with the 14:55 Regional Railways DMU 709 for Penzance

The rain was off when I came out so I wandered over St Ives Head and back past the harbour towards the station, taking a few photos as I went. This time I did travel by train, another antiquated DMU, which rattled back to Penzance in twenty minutes. In the station, there was a former ScotRail loco 47976 “Aviemore Centre” on a track monitoring train. I don't know why they attached a Class 08 shunter before it left.

47976 "Aviemore Centre" just outside Penzance railway station	St Ives service DMU 709 sits on the left while 158870 leaves Penzance Station as the 15:20 to Birmingham

I wandered yet again round the harbour, taking photos of a couple of sailing ships, the “Freya” which claimed to be Baltic but was registered in Dover, and the “Norden” registered in Lubeck, built about 1880. On the way back to the hostel, I was admiring the exterior of a square-built church when I was accosted by a lady called Mary who considered it ugly. I did not agree but had her whole life story before I escaped ten minutes later.

A couple of sailing ships, the "Norden" (Lubeck) and the "Freya" (Dover),	Yachts in Penzance Harbour

At the hostel I showered and changed into my last clean clothes before dining on cauliflower soup and spaghetti bolognese. Then it was out for an evening in town, or rather in a pub where I tried three different beers from the St Austell brewery. They do an excellent XXXX mild. I even remembered to post the film I'd been carrying around all day.

Day 14 - Thursday May 23 — The Return Journey

I woke several times during the night, probable worried about oversleeping, so I overslept and didn't wake until half past seven. Still, I was washed, packed and away by eight, into an overcast but dry day. Despite the weather, I went straight past the station to photograph the Scilly Isles ferry, Scillonian III, in her usual berth at the Lighthouse Pier.

The Scilly Isles ferry, "Scillonian III"	Penzance, across the harbour

A few spots of rain fell as the train departed and continued as we travelled through a misty morning most of the way to Bristol where we arrived in good time. However, we did not depart at the scheduled time; it was announced that fitters were working on the lead power car. Presumably, they worked well and we left eleven minutes late. We were still ten minutes late at Birmingham but that still left me with fifteen minutes to change platforms for the 15:05 to Glasgow. This train had come from Bournemouth and was pretty busy. My reserved seat was unmarked but unoccupied so I had no difficulty in taking possession.

The train remained busy until Preston, after which it gradually emptied, except the smoking coach which remained nearly full all the way to Glasgow.

As we approached Carlisle, there was a cold steam engine 46203 in LMS red sitting in a siding with cream and maroon support coach. Couldn't make out the name. [Later - LMS 6203 (BR 46203) “Princess Margaret Rose”, built 1935, withdrawn 1962, returned to mainline action 1990, withdrawn again 10 April 1996 at Carlisle and returned to Swanwick on 29 May.]

As we came over Beattock, there was a 20mph speed limit with sleepers and lights by the lineside. I don't know if this had any connection with the overhead line equipment failure of a fortnight before.

Ten minutes early into Glasgow, I rearranged my luggage and headed for the bus stop where a 64 to Tollcross arrived within minutes to convey me to my abode.

End of trip

[ Back To The Top ]      [ Contents ]