The Pembrokeshire Coast Path — May 1997

It appears I did not keep a diary of this trip, or, if I did, I never typed it up, as all I can find on the computer is some sketchy notes for the outward journey. Nor can I find any memorabilia from the trip, which is even odder given my reluctance to discard the trivia of life. I've reconstructed the trip as best I can remember it, prompted by the photographs, Landranger sheet 157 and my wee black book.

Day 0 - Tuesday, May 6 — The Outward Journey

I had fun buying a train ticket for this trip. I wanted a return to Milford Haven via the "Heart of Wales" line and, since the interesting part of the trip was in Wales, I phoned the operator in that area - South West Trains - and asked for a ticket. The lady didn't think it was her job to sell tickets and asked almost indignantly where I had got the number. I pointed out that it was listed in the British Rail timetable but she still wouldn't help. So I phoned British Rail and they quoted a ridiculous price for my preferred route, insisting that I had to go via Gloucester to get any reduction. So I phoned Scotrail and a lady with a Welsh accent told me there would be no problem, I could get a Super Saver Return on the day for �80.20.

So, it was a fine morning in Glasgow when I took the bus into Central and bought a return to Milford Haven. The (Bournemouth) train (HST units 43014+080) departed at 08:13 and we had a fine run through the snow-capped southern uplands. I had noticed some black smoke from the leading power unit as we passed Polmadie, diminishing gradually through Motherwell and we were a little bit later at each stop — Carlisle (09:38 - 09:41), Penrith (10:01 - 10:02), Oxenholme (10:31 - 10:34), Lancaster (10:49 - 10:51), Preston (11:10 - 11:13), Wigan (11:27 - 11:30) and Warrington (11:43 - 11:44) — to be 15 minutes late at Crewe at 12:04. It struck me that there was something odd as I watched the train restart its journey, then I realised that the leading power car was shut down! Obviously, the black smoke at Polmadie was more than just a hiccup in the fuel supply.

I left Crewe again at 12:13 on 158840 and there was some slight precipitation, snow or hail, before we arrived at Shrewsbury at 12:43 where the ground was wet and there was a further shower while waiting for the 13:14 train (153355) to Llanelli over the "Heart of Wales" line. There was a snow shower after Llanbister Road, but it was off when we emerged from the tunnel before Pen-y-bont.

When we arrived on time at Llanelli (16:38), I went for short walk, saw nothing of interest and was back at the station before five o'clock. A Pacer (143618) came in a few minutes later, a quick look at the timetable showed nothing due at that time, so I stood irresolute on the platform. The driver called me over, enquired my destination and informed me that, due to signalling problems at Cardiff, his train was the late-running one before the one I was expecting and he had no idea when that one would arrive, if at all, so I boarded and we rattled off at 17:05 towards Milford Haven. But I wasn't going to Milford, I got off at Haverford West at 18:17 after 438 miles on three trains and caught a bus (�1.85) for the last 15 miles into Fishguard arriving there at 19:20. I did not stop to admire the sights of the the town but headed for the ferry terminal, pausing at Goodwick (20:00 - 21:00) for some refreshment - the first I'd had all day. I reached the ferry terminal at 21:15 and dumped my pack in a left luggage locker (�1) and took further refreshment before the bar closed.

Why was I at the ferry terminal? Well, I had decided that there was no point starting the walk so late in the day and overnight accommodation in Fishguard would cost more than a day return to Rosslare and I could sleep on the ferry (and take advantage of the duty free shop).

Day 1 - Wednesday, May 7 — Over the Sea to Ireland

And so I sailed on the Stena Felicity at 03:13 paying �13 for a day return, bought 250 grams of Condor for �15.99 (as against about �24 in Glasgow) and slept as best I could until disembarking at Rosslare at 06:53. There was time for a leisurely stroll up a small rise overlooking the port to take some photos before boarding the fast ferry Stena Lynx for the return journey, leaving Rosslare at 09:10 and arriving at Fishguard at 10:50, one hour and forty minutes as against three hours forty minutes on the conventional ferry.

Irish Ferries "Isle of Innisfree" and "Stena Felicity" at Rosslare		The 0735 Dublin train leaves Rosslare Harbour

"Stena Felicity" en route from Rosslare to Fishguard		"Stena Felicity" rounds the outer breakwater approaching Fishguard

Strumble Head lighthouse

I recovered my backpack and set off at 11:20, a short walk back to Goodwick then gained the high ground and set off in earnest. I paused to photograph the Stena Felicity arriving at the ferry terminal (she had left Rosslare at 09:00, before we did) and continued to Strumble Head (15:00 - 15:10) before reaching the isolated Pwll Deri youth hostel at at 16:50 having walked a mere 9.2 miles today. There I paid �6.95 for a night's accommodation, �1.78 for some food, phoned home to report my position and presumably ate and went to bed.

Day 2 - Thursday, May 8 — Rain, and yet more rain

The heading for today is contemporaneous, as are the timings, but they fail to trigger any memories. I left Pwll Deri at 09:55, paused at Abercastle (6.1 miles, 13:10 - 13:30), reached the road at Aber Draw (9 miles, 14:55 - 15:05) and arrived at the youth hostel (�6.95) in the village of Trefin (9.5 miles) at 15:15. There must be a shop and a pub there because I bought (and presumably drank) a quart of milk and dined on lassagne, potatoes, veg and salad before consuming three pints of Boddingtons.

Day 3 - Friday, May 9 — Round St. David's Head

I left Trefin at 09:55, regained the coast path at Aber Draw at 10:05 and reached Porthgain (2.1 miles) at 10:50 where I paused to photograph the harbour and the impressive remains of the brickworks.

Porthgain Harbour with the remains of the brickworks. The blue boat "Mivi" is registered at Kyle of Lachalsh!

The brickworks	Porthgain	The white cones are markers for the entrance to Porthgain Harbour. Strumble Head in the distance

The coast north from near St David's Head	Looking across Whitesands Bay to Ramsey Island from St David's Head

I resumed my stroll at 11:20, passed Abereiddy (6.1 miles, 12:20 - 12:25), St David's Head (9.9 miles, 15:40 - 16:00) and reached Whitesands Bay (11 miles) at 16:40 from where it was just 0.8 miles off route to the youth hostel, arriving there at 17:01.

Now, the hostel is nearer to Whitesands Bay than to St Davids so, after booking in for the night (�6.25) and buying two pints of milk (�0.76), I set off at 18:10 for the bright lights of the city, reaching it at 18:50. There, I had a quick look at the Cathedral (choir practice in progress), found a reasonable pub for a pint of Flowers Original (�1.85) and a reasonable chip shop for cod and chips (�2.90), left town at 20:05 and was back at the hostel at 20:45. The round trip brought today's mileage up to 14.9.

Day 4 - Saturday, May 10 — On to Solva

Lifeboat station at St Justinian

I left the youth hostel at 09:30 and regained the coast path at Whitesands Bay at 10:05, paused at St Justinian (2.8 miles, 10:50 - 11:00) to photograph the lifeboat station and notice that the ferry to Ramsey Island was cancelled due to excessive wind, then rounded the headland to turn east and paused at Porth Clais (7 miles, 12:50 - 13:15) before reaching Solva (15.8 miles) at 15:45. There I took some refreshment before considering my options for accommodation and settled on the Old Pharmacy B&B (�17) which proved to be very nice. Back out to phone home, dine on chilli con carne (�4.95) and take further refreshment before retiring for the night.

The River Solva is a popular 'anchorage' for small boats, the village is at the far end

Day 5 - Sunday, May 11 — Down to the Lowlands

The River Solva opens out into its estuary. The ruins on the left hand side were lime kilns		The mouth of the Solva, from the Gribin

After a good breakfast, I took a few photos and left Solva at 09:50 reaching Dinas Fawr at 11:00 where I took some more photos.

West along the coast towards Ramsey Island. The houses on the right are Upper Solva	East along the coast towards Newgale Sands	Across St Bride's Bay towards Broad Haven. The towers on the skyline are part of the oil refineries around Milford Haven

Newgale Sands. There is sand below the pebble bank when the tide is out

I resumed walking at 11:20 and reached Newgale (4.1 miles) at 12:45 where I had a quick pint of Buckles' Jemima Nicholas (�1.55) and lunched on a baked potato with beans, a milk shake and tea ((�3.40). At 13:45, it was back on the road now heading south and passing Nolton Haven (5.9 miles, 15:05 - 15:10) before reaching Broad Haven (9.6 miles) where I booked in to the youth hostel (�8.50) and dined on soup, cheese and onion pasty and ice cream.

After dinner I ventured into town for a pint of Worthington (�1.55) and a second of Rev James Williams (�1.85) before returning to the youth hostel and bed.

Day 6 - Monday, May 12 — The Middle of Nowhere

After breakfast (�2.85), I set off at 09:25 passing Little Haven (0.9 miles, 09:40 - 09:45) where I turned west again passing St Bride's Haven (5.7 miles, 11:45 - 11:55) and Martin's Haven (11.8 miles, 13:45 - 13:55) where I took a couple of photos before heading on to Marloes Sands (14.8 miles) where I arrived at the youth hostel (�6.25) at 15:20. This being a basic hostel, there was no fresh food available so I walked into Marloes for supplies and returned to the hostel to dine. At 19:55 I returned to Marloes for a post prandial refreshment, 3 pints of Worthington (�5.40) and was back at the hostel at 22:15. The two trips into Marloes brought my day's mileage up to 19.2 miles.

Wooltack Point, Midland and Skomer Islands	A coaster lies at anchor off Musselwick. The Nab headland in the distance

Day 7 - Tuesday, May 13 — The Longest Day

Interesting deformed rock strata at Cobbler's Hole near St Ann's Head	Looking up Milford Haven from St Ann's Head

I hit the road again at 09:10 and was soon tempted by a shortcut from Westdale Bay into Dale (saving about 6 miles) but managed to resist and reached St Ann's Head (5.9 miles) guarding the entrance to Milford Haven at 11:40. After a 10 minute pause to take a couple of photos, I continued to Dale (9.3 miles) arriving there at 13:25. I entered the first pub I came to, ordered a pint of Bullmaster Gold Brew (�1.50, 3.8%) and asked for a ploughman's lunch before reading the menu. The barman said they didn't do ploughman's on Tuesdays but went into the kitchen, came back and said yes, they'd knock one up (�3.50). And very good it was, so I had a second pint, Bullmaster Lifeboat (�1.70, 4.4%).

I restarted at 14:40, and after a mile, crossed something at 15:05 and reached Sandy Haven (15.1 miles) at 17:45. It seems I did not have to make a 4 mile detour around the long inlet of Sandyhaven Pill, presumably the tide was out, and, by following the footpath between an oil refinery and the shore, I reached Milford Haven (19.3 miles) at 19:45.

The first thing of note was the railway station, where I checked train times, noting that there was still one more to go this evening. Then I set off up a hill in search of the town proper, passing a row of what appeared to be guest houses still waiting for summer. Half way up, I ran out of enthusiasm and returned to the station.

The train (158822) departed at 20:10, passed Haverfordwest (20:24) and arrived at Carmarthen at 21:00 where I purchased chocolate milk and orange juice (�1.34) and phoned home to report progress, before leaving again on 158818 at 21:30, passing Llanelli (21:59 and arriving at Cardiff at 23:27.

Day 8 - Wednesday, May 14 — Home Again

The station then closed so I spent the night wandering around the city centre and loitering in the bus station until about half past four when the railway station reopened in time for the 05:10 train (153380) passing Hereford (06:22 - 06:23) and Shrewsbury (07:22 - 07:26) and arriving at Crewe at 08:14. Time to buy the Guardian (�0.45) and tea and a reasonable cheese sandwich (�2.88) for breakfast before catching an electric hauled (87010) train at 08:47, passing Warrington (09:06 - 09:07), Wigan (09:18 - 09:19), Preston (0932 - 09:34), Lancaster (09:52 - 10:05), Oxenholme (10:20 - 10:21), Penrith (10:47 - 10:48) and Carlise (11:04 - 11:05) to arrive in Glasgow at 12:18, 501 miles from Milford Haven.

I partook of a couple of pints of Bass (�3.50) for lunch before catching a bus home.