Australia 1988

Saturday 4 June — To Brisbane

Slept like a log. Woke once, somewhere, then it was light. Overcast again as we head towards the coast. The shower was cold, did the best I could, then went for breakfast. As I hadn’t eaten for twenty-four hours I decided on the mixed grill. Needed two cups of tea to get through it.

Train running on time. Spotted 1726 cold plus DH58, DH69 at Dalby, DH67 at Toowoomba. We were now hauled by 2113-A, must have changed at Roma in the night. Miserable rain killed any idea of nipping out to see the town at Toowoomba so I settled for a couple of beers in the station buffet instead.

The station is a dead end, although there is a line without a platform through and across the road. The train reverses out the way it came in, about a kilometre, then nips round a triangle. It used to nip round the triangle then reverse into the station but too many freight cars and the passengers were off the platform, not to mention the problems of shunting the freight when required.

We have almost three hours for the last 160 kilometres to Brisbane. The maximum speed between Charleville and Toowoomba was 80 kph, but the first 25 kilometres out of Toowoomba descending the ranges has limits of 40 or less, down to 15 kph in places. The advertised spectacular views did not materialise, in the mist and rain it was difficult to see either end of the train at times. I did see that we had nine freight cars on the back (two refrigerated). Crossed a freight at Holmes, hauled by 1275, looked the same as 2113-A.

Still raining off and on all the way to Brisbane. Nola finally persuaded me that even though I didn’t fancy the idea much, I would be foolish to miss Expo. Apparently it is possible to get around most of the pavilions without excessive queueing if you are selective and try to hit the most popular places at off-peak times, first thing in the morning, during the lunchtime parade or later in the evening. I sank a few tubes and decided that I wanted to be in Perth when my Austrailpass expired.

Brisbane YH was full. A nearby backpackers had gone up market and now charges $30 for a single room. Affordable but I didn’t have enough cash in hand and they didn’t take credit cards yet. So, back to the Transit Centre. Up in the coach station on the third level, there was a board advertising eight different backpackers. While wondering where to start, a tout approached me and offered a lift to his place, Backpackers Down Under, $10, so I decided to accept. Reasonable, a bit noisy at night, twenty minutes from town and thirty five from Expo.

By the time I had got myself sorted out, the rain was nearly off and I decided to head for town. I had barely reached the first pub when the rain became torrential. I stopped in a doorway watching the street gutters fill and overflow then had to ford the stream to reach the pub. Barmaid Allison from Cambridge.

After a bit, the floods receded and I set off again for town. After about ten minutes, with the rain getting more persistent, I realised I was daft and returned to the pub, buying some local tobacco, Dr Pat Irish Mixture on the way. Got into conversation with a Dutchman called Cor who supports Sparta. Talked mostly football till the pub closed.

One local thought the shower of beer cans at the State of Origin rugby league match at Lang Park the other night, Queensland v NSW, was a legitimate expression of dissatisfaction with the referee’s decision and not a sign of increasing crowd disorder. (32 arrests at the match.)

Sunday 5 June — First day at Expo88

At least the rain is off. Still some cloud around with occasional sunny periods. Decided to visit Expo. Walked across, bought a three day ticket and went to see what there was to see. And there was lots.

Started with the GB pavilion, mostly England of course, a sports facilities database had half a dozen assorted football bodies in England and none in Scotland, Wales or the Isle of Man. There was a tower of TV screen showing a confused collection of tourist attractions, sports and industry, plus a space capsule simulator. Next the EC and France, the latter having a very glitzy set-up, lots of mirrors and a Meccano Eiffel Tower.

Rice and curried (western) vegetables in Pakistan for lunch, Himalayan curry and lassi in Nepal for tea. The German beer hall was stowed so I didn’t stay but discovered that they had a beer garden outside where I got served at once.

I went to those pavilions without queues and had no problems filling my day, later in the day even the Australian, Queensland and Victoria pavilions were fairly quiet. There’s still lots to do and see when I come again, especially as I missed a trip on the steam tug Forceful as I didn’t realise that the Maritime Museum is down at the far end of the site. Must remember that she only sails on Saturday and Sunday.

There had been occasional drizzle during the day but it was off as I left and loitered on the Victoria Bridge to watch the closing fireworks. Walked back to the hostel and to bed.

Monday 6 June — Brisbane, mostly

Checked out of the hostel and walked to Roma St to get rid of the luggage. Breakfast and a beer, then went walkabout. The problem with taking photos is the contrast between strong sun light and the shadows it creates, and avoiding the shadows of the high-rise buildings.

Up the town a bit, round through the Botanic gardens, along the riverside and back to the Victoria Bridge. Then a few beers and back to the station to book Brisbane-Sydney- Canberra for 20/21 June, no sleepers available (school holidays).

The Capricornian to Rockhampton was 1556 and 1720 hauling power car, roomettes, twinettes (first), triplettes (second), club car, mixed seating and second seating. I thought this must be the shortest train I’ve been on if you include the freight cars on the Westlander. There was no parcels van so I wondered where my pack might be. And while I was wondering, they added a brake van and fourteen freight cars, one refrigerated.

The roomettes were IP style with wavy corridor, but shorter, only fourteen compartments, one shower and one toilet. I noticed that the club car was non-smoking, If I wanted to drink and smoke, I would have to take the beer back to my compartment. So I had a beer and a sandwich and , having missed the eight thirty bar closing, retired to my compartment for a smoke, shower and bed. The window was fogged, between the double glazing. Ruins the view.

Tuesday 7 June — Rockhampton

The 0500 tea arrived at 0530. Had a shower, breakfast, and we arrived in Rockhampton ten minutes early. Walked around the town. Encountered a northbound freight in the main street (well, not quite the main main street) lots of wagons hauled by 1338 and 1638. Crossed the Fitzroy River on the footpath attached to the Alexandra Rail Bridge (1899?) and returned over the main highway bridge (198?).

Wandered around the town for a while as the sun got hotter then retreated into the Criterion Hotel for shelter and a few beers. When I re-emerged, the sun was even hotter, and all the people had vanished. Went into another hotel where the railway runs down the street. (Kawakawa, where are you now, this place has a double track down the street.) The Queensland Daylight Railtour went past and a couple of freights. Talked to a Canadian from Lake William, BC. An unsolicited compliment on the quality of Glasgow’s water supply.

Back to the station. The southbound Capricornian left at 1715, hauled by the same two engines which brought it north. Into the station bar, another recommendation to visit the Stockman’s Hall of fame at Longreach, rather than go to Winton.

The Midlander consisted of loco 2451, some freight (one refrigerated), power car, twinettes, buffet with first class sitting (smoking), triplettes, and I don’t know what else.

Off we went up the road, inland, most of it double track, all electrified. Passed a couple of long freights with extra engines in the middle, looked like electric class 35. Probably hauling coal from Blackall, I was informed by the catering staff. (I was also informed that they have problems with coal dust getting into the works of the engines in the middle of the trains.)

When we stopped at Bluff about nine o’clock, in the station lights I could see two shiny locos 3634 and 3611 pointing towards Rocky with bulk wagons behind and 2453 and 2410 with mixed freight (mostly coal) in the middle road, same direction. When we moved on, we passed three shiny locos hauling seventy eight coal wagons. There was another coast-bound coal train at Blackwater.

How much coal is there in Queensland? And why can’t they build a platform longer than one carriage?

Wednesday 8 June — Longreach

I woke about six but couldn’t be bothered getting up. Watched the sky getting lighter till we got to Barcaldine at quarter to seven. The Shakespeare Hotel had coloured lights strung outside. Got up and had OJ, tea and a cheese sandwich for breakfast. At Ilfracombe, 1736 was shunting, it turned out to be pulling the train as well, I don’t know where it came on. I jumped ship when we arrived in Longreach, having first warned the guard that I would not be getting back on at Winton.

Once upon a time, in 1921 to be exact, some ambitious persons set up the Queensland and Northern Territory Aerial Service. It was a success, now known as Quantas. The original office was a hut, now used as the tourist information centre. Walked up and down the main street, couldn’t get up the water tower, then headed two kilometres out of town to the recently completed (almost) Australian Stockman’s Hall of Fame and Outback Heritage Centre. Quite interesting, not so much a Hall of Fame as a Pastoralist Historical Museum. The building itself, despite being the result of an international competition, is pleasing to the eye and well arranged inside.

Ambled back into town mid-afternoon and took refuge from the sun in a pub. Bundaberg Rum comes in twenty litre drums. Waited awhile then went to the western edge of town to observe a mediocre sunset over the outback. The ground was cracked and dry though at one point the bits between the cracks were very gooey, a dropped pebble sploshed a couple of inches down.

Another beer or two en route to the station. Spoke to an ex-Aberdonian on the platform. He didn’t think much of New Zealand. The train, with 1736 still on front, was late. A little confusion kept me in suspense about whether I had a bed, but it turned out OK. A couple of beers, washed my socks, lost my comb and went to bed.

Barcaldine had coloured lights strung all along the main street, and another pub called the Globe, not to mention the Artesian and the Railway.

Thursday 9 June — Rockhampton

A fractured night’s sleep again, too much stopping and starting. Finally decided to wake about six o’clock just before Tomlies, as the sky was getting light though the sun did not appear until 0645 at Blackwater, about 200 kilometres from Rocky. We were back under the overhead wires, probably since Emerald. There was an electric loco on front (later identified as 3508), I could see the shadow of the pantograph.

Passed a diesel 2200 hauling grain with 1462 and 2221? pushing grain, about twenty metre gap between the trains, then 1558 hauling mixed freight, mostly empties. About ten kilometres before Rocky, 102 coal wagons with two diesels on front and three more in the middle. A kilometre further on, two electrics in front and two in the middle of another 102 coal wagons (plus a couple of what I take to be power cars). I believe these coal wagons take about forty tons.

Into Rockhampton three minutes late, or by last November’s timetable, two hours and twenty-two minutes early. Headed into town. Couple of beers in the first pub I came to. Ambled about for a while, the school kids were doing lunchtime things in the mall. Lunch and a few beers in the pub near the bridge, then walked up the hill behind the town (the cook on the Midlander had said go up to the gardens) to the Botanic Gardens.

Very nice, but the “zoo” was mostly pheasants, geese and cockatoos, plus a reasonable collection of wallaby/kangaroos. Saw one wallaby with a tail and a foot sticking out of her pouch. Nice Japanese garden, given time. Lovely palms against the lake. Had a custard pie (apple in the bottom) and tea and a magpie, kookaburra and two other birds came along to within two feet to cadge a share.

Back downtown for a few beers in the Swan, then to the station. 1723 went through in a Bicentennial livery. Into the bar, Mary remarked that the last couple of days the train had been full of pensioners migrating north for the winter. The Sunlander arrived hauled by 1518, power car, roomettes, two twinettes, roomettes, twinettes, triplettes, dining car, club car (non-smoking), triplettes, two second sitting and two parcels vans. The train seemed fairly full and most of the passengers were intent on getting into the bar. I boarded the train and found my bed, same style as the Capricornian roomette.

The engine was changed to 1556 and we got going. I headed for the club car for a smoke and met a pair of conductors who said it’s all shut up. I said I knew that, I was only going to sit and smoke. No, that’s not allowed. So I went back to my roomette and smoked there.

Friday 10 June — On to Cairns

The 0530 tea came as a rude awakening, but I struggled up in time for first breakfast at 0645. No fruit on menu. The sun rose while I was eating, a lot of mist, nice effect with distant hills. Sugar cane fields outside with narrow narrow gauge rails running off into them. Reached Bowen about ten to eight, stopped for ten minutes. Thereafter, we seemed to stop for a few minutes every twenty minutes or so, only occasionally passing another train.

The sugar cane vanished to be replaced by rough pasture, very rough in places with few cattle, then some arable then cane fields again. On the inland side of the line, flat land extending away to small ranges. Lunch at 1115, salmon (tinned) salad, Townsville at 1200, where we picked up a freight car behind the loco. The Daylight Railtour was sitting in the station. I noticed that both its sitting cars were non-smoking.

We left on time at 1240, passing the southbound Sunlander shortly after. Beer is only available on this train from 1100 to 1330, and 1630 to 1900, to coincide with meal times. At Silkwood, we drove a whole gaggle of geese, ducks, hens and cats off the line. Just as the sunset looked like coming good, we stopped at Innisfail next to a line of freight wagons.

At 1945, the train stopped, just outside a station, Cairns I thought. Not so, “Cairns 15 minutes” cried the conductor. Back to sleep. Twenty minutes late at Cairns. It was still hot and humid. Not much problem at the YH, not a lot of beds left but I didn’t get the last one. The guy in front of me wasn’t even a member (and he smoked in the night!).

Went for a walk round the town. By the time I had decided to have a fish supper for tea, the shop was closed. A few beers instead. The barmaid had a T-shirt with Broadford on it, but it’s near Melbourne.

Saturday 11 June — Cairns

I watched the morning trains depart then wandered down to the wharves and booked a cruise for tomorrow to the outer Barrier Reef. Enquired about Bureau de Change and was directed to a Westpac nearby which opens Saturday and Sunday mornings. Decided to alleviate the shortage of Aussie dollar cheques by cashing a US one, got $121.93 less the usual ten cents stamp duty.

Into town, feeling the heat already, took refuge in a pub for a while. After that, went for a walk along the esplanade and exposed my stomach to the sun for half an hour. My back will get plenty sun tomorrow. Back for a few more beers then to the railway station to book a seat for Kuranda on Monday, but it was closed.

So to the hostel for a shower, change, and out for tea, this time I did get the fish supper before the shop closed, then went for a few beers. Just one in a few bars, an Aboriginal girl told me a bit of her life story, I moved on and two Aboriginals called Josiah and his uncle Robin told me about the sorry state of things, then stung me for a drink, then went to sleep on the bar. Back to the hostel and bed.

Sunday 12 June —

Seven o’clock start and off to the wharf, getting there by eight. The trip was on a large air-conditioned catamaran, no smoking inside, open area at the rear of the upper deck where I settled myself on the side I thought would get less sun, and I was right.

We set out at 0830, cruised slowly out of the inlet and then set off at speed and with some slight movement for Green Island. Arrived there at 0920, slow approach through reef channel to a long jetty. We disembarked and the boat went back to Cairns to bring out those who would be staying on the island for the day. I decided to book for the Reef-Teach, a guided snorkel tour on the outer reef, then walked around the island, had a paddle, a cup of tea and a bit of an ogle at the girls.

Approaching the pontoon on Norman Reef, part of the Barrier Reef. The square float is a helipad

The boat returned at 1130 and I resumed the same seat for the next stage of the journey. There was a bit more movement in the more open water and we were advised to hold on to something if we were moving around the boat. There was a talk and slide show on the ecology of the reef from Louise in the cabin then a demonstration on the use of a snorkel from the “dive team” who are safety officers for the trip. It is possible to hire scuba diving equipment - if you hold a recognised proficiency certificate and have it with you.

The destination was a large pontoon moored on the edge of Norman Reef. It boasts a viewing room below the waterline and at set times the staff throw food over the side above it. Amazing watching the fish feed. There were a couple of mini-subs which could take a dozen people or so for a short underwater tour. Nearby was another pontoon marked out for helicopter landing.

As we approached, one of the crew removed a barrier at the bottom of some steps leading up to a sun-roof on the cabin roof. Apparently, this is no longer used during the voyage since a lady decided it was too windy up there and fell down the steps, breaking her arm.

Anyway, at the pontoon, I hung around for lunch, a very nice cold buffet, lots of prawns, but I had to be moderate as I would soon be going swimming. There was a fair breeze blowing so I ate inside the boat, ignoring the shaded tables on the pontoon.

I picked up a mask and flippers and went for a practice. My 100M water resist watch resisted for about three minutes then started making plaintive bleeps and the digital display reset itself. I got out and dumped it with my clothes, then resumed snorkelling.

At 1345, a guided tour of the corals etc. About eight in the group, I kept drifting into people. Louise picked samples off the bottom and handed them round, a sea slug is not sluggish at all, quite firm on the outside but holds a lot of water inside and is not too particular where it squirts it. Corals and fish were wonderful and it was all very interesting.

When we finished at 1430, I was quite relieved to get rid of the snorkel. A face mask does not seal properly over a beard and the seepage got up my nose. I had to stop and clear it quite often. Also whenever I turned my head sideways or looked back down at whatever I had just passed over, the snorkel filled with water. A bit awkward.

There were warm fresh-water showers, I washed, dried, dressed and went back aboard for tea, cheese and fruit, then back on deck for a smoke. My watch was dead, even the hands had stopped, rinsing it in clean water made no difference.

We left the pontoon at 1530 and headed back to Green Island, which is obviously the catering base. Picked up more passengers then back to Cairns. There was a bit of cloud over the town but it was still a fine day. Back to the hostel for a shower and change.

I dined at the Taj, pretty reasonable pakura and lamb dupiaza. By then, the pubs were shut, on Sundays they have two sessions, lunchtime and early evening, closing at six, so I had OJ and chocolate milk before retiring early.