Australia 1988

Monday 12 June Queen’s Birthday Holiday — Kuranda

Time to go to Kuranda, a village on the plateau just inland from Cairns. I don’t know how it came to be so popular, there are three trains up every morning and back in the afternoon, but it might be just for the contrast, from the cultivated coast to the edge of the rain forest.

The trains leave Cairns at 0830, 0900 and 0930. The 0900 is privatised and offers a commentary and morning tea for a few dollars extra, the other two are public. I decided to go for the 0830, thinking that even this would count as a “special”, not covered by my pass but the booking office clerk thought otherwise and who was I to complain?

1759 hauled fifteen old carriages, open but with wide bench seats and a passage down the side. I had a window seat but it wouldn’t have made much difference, the car was not full and people could sit where they liked. The climb offered fine view over the coastal plain. We stopped at Barron Falls to admire the cascade, then continued into Kuranda. The station here features on many tourist brochures, heavily bedecked with what appeared to be hanging flower baskets but which, on closer inspection, turned out to be parasitic growths on lumps of wood.

I loitered to watch the arrival of the commentary train, eight carriages hauled by 1757, same as on Saturday, then walked through the village to the road bridge over the Barron River. This bridge had expansion joints which were three inches wide, they must get some range of temperature up here (between day and night, winter isn’t exactly cold). Back into the village, the butterfly farm costs $8, a bit much, the Aboriginal dance show was $9, a bit much. Looked around the shops, didn’t buy anything, except fresh-baked damper and tea for lunch.

Down past the station to the river bank for a launch cruise, a couple of kilometres downstream to the end of the river. At this time of the year, the whole flow is stolen for a hydro-electric power station. There was a reasonable commentary and a white ant’s nest up a dead tree.

Back at the station, the commentary train had returned at 1200, but the 0930 had brought another fifteen carriages hauled by 1762. The return trains were at 1410 or 1515, I decided to get the earlier one, I felt that there wasn’t much more to see. We stopped again at Barron Falls where there was no water, they only open the taps for the morning trains.

On arrival in Cairns, I went looking for a watch. There were a few more shops open than yesterday, but not many as it was a public holiday. I found one in the Trinity Wharf development which offered a wide range of luxury goods and gadgets including watches from $10 to $450, and eventually decided to spend $45. (I was not too happy to find the same watch in Glasgow at £10, but needs must.)

Had a few beers to celebrate, then back to the hostel to change. Decided to eat Indonesian, very nice, very solid main course Bemie Gerang as it was spelt, noodles with shrimps, pork, chicken etc. When I came out, the pubs were shut, so back to the hostel, sorted my gear and went to bed.

Tuesday 14 June — South towards Brisbane

QR 1530, 1741 wait to take the Queenslander south from Cairns

The Queenslander between Cairns and Brisbane is the flagship of Queensland Railways. It runs twice a week instead of the Sunlander, mostly first class accommodation with food included in the ticket price. Today’s train was hauled by 1516 and 1724, and consisted of a power car, two roomettes, four twinettes, lounge car, dining car, dinette/club for the plebs, staff accommodation, two sitting cars (four abreast), baggage car, guards van and two motorail cars.

Quite a lot of handouts on the train including a small toilet case. Menus may be souvenired (Nola had claimed some credit for that) so I did. The lounge car serves drinks all day but the plebs have a dry time between one and four. I asked a stewardess and she said that they get too drunk. I’d better stay sober! The food was good, but kiwifruit kept appearing as “tropical” fruit.

We left at 0815 for a pleasant run south, nothing of note till we reached Townsville, except for crossing the Sunlander about an hour before. We refuelled and picked up another two motorail wagons. A couple of beers in the afternoon then dressed for dinner. The stewardesses in the lounge car dressed too, sexy silver lame with a split up the thigh, quite a long way. One of the girls in the dining car was from Scotland but even she can’t get me kippers for breakfast.

A couple more beers after dinner. They show videos in the lounge car, blooming nuisance.

Wednesday 15 June — Brisbane

Morning tea at six. Ouch. Shower before breakfast at half past seven. About 0720, an alarm went off, at least in the front half of the train. I was later told that it was due to a loco fault and we changed engines at Gladstone, where most of the station was destroyed in a fire last week.

Discussed trains with one of the crew, class 24 are the latest locos, good pullers, class 15 have good acceleration, so they are often paired. Brisbane to Rockhampton is due for electrification next year, work is ahead of schedule and they might be running by June. Meanwhile most electric locos are hauling coal from Emerald on the plateau to Gladstone, and there were certainly a lot when we passed there.

A couple of beers before lunch at 1230. We were running a bit late, fifteen minutes out of Gladstone, twenty minutes at Bundaberg. There was a fair bit of line work, perhaps associated with electrification. Still about twenty minutes late at Nambour, they said the would make up five minutes by Brisbane but only managed three. Checked the engines, 2405 and 1774.

I collected my luggage and headed for the YH, which was full, again. Back to the Transit Centre, up to the coach station, and lo, Anne and Dave from Backpackers Down Under. In the Kent St branch this time, just across from the pub. Settled in and went walkabout, nearest suburban station is Brunswick St, not far (seven minutes), pie and chips (the shop had no fish left), chocolate milk, and into the Brunswick Hotel. Barman this time, Irish, from Antrim.

Just a couple of beers, then walked the other way up the street. On the way back, a drunk fell into the street just behind me, I heard the thump as his head hit the ground, so I went back to pick him up. Another lad assisted me to lift him onto a bench and two Irish lassies appeared and called an ambulance. He had a cut on his head and wasn’t too sure where he was. One of the lassies (Josephine) seemed to know what she was doing so I stood back. Chap wanted nothing to do with ambulance or hospital, but it arrived just then so we left the professionals to deal with it and went our separate ways, mine being back to the hostel and to bed. I think there were some women in the room.

Thursday 16 June — Second day at Expo88

Up at seven, shower, write up a bit of diary and head off into town, cheated by taking the train from Brunswick St just two stops to Roma St. Since I was there, I enquired whether I had a berth on the Brisbane Limited (to Sydney) but I was still second on the waiting list. The clerk was optimistic, check again nearer the time.

Went off and bought some film then changed £100 into $222.22 less stamp duty and a $2 charge. Queried the charge and was told I was lucky, Westpac charge $5, so why didn’t they take it off my US$ in Cairns? Seems like another banking rip-off.

Off to Expo, got there at 0943 and joined the queue, almost out to the street, twelve abreast. Through the gate at 1010, starting to rain, by the time I reached the New Zealand pavilion the queue there was estimated at two to two and a half hours. Went to Western Australia instead. By the time I came out of there, NSW had a substantial queue so I looked at the Art of Central Australia and went into the British Pub.

Bass, Tetley’s, Double Diamond, Tennent’s Extra, Cornish Lager, John Smith’s Yorkshire Bitter, Guinness, all at $4.80, over £2 per pint. Amongst the bottled beers was MacAndrew’s Scotch Ale from the Caledonia Brewery in Edinburgh. Judging by the label, it got there via the USA. Bottles also selling for $4.80 so I stuck to pints. Fake hand pumps. Talked to a motor-cycle parts salesman from Melbourne. John Smith’s, then Bass, Tetley’s, another Bass and another John Smith’s. Such extravagance.

Down to the Maritime Museum, they’ve got a corvette in dry dock and the steam tug Forceful at the jetty. Another of those occasions when I find something interesting and get a rush of home-sickness. The builder’s plate said Alexander Stephen and Sons, Glasgow, 1925. Had a chat with the skipper, his wife sold me a T-shirt and a book.

Ambled around the rest of the time, not such a successful day as my last visit but very pleasant. Aussie seafood for lunch, Cypriot sausages for tea. No more beer. Late night trip on the monorail, watched the fireworks then caught the train from South Brisbane to Brunswick St.

Didn’t buy souvenirs as I had intended, except for Forceful, so I can’t post them on Friday. Could be awkward if I buy much on Saturday and have to carry them around till Canberra as it may be difficult to organise myself on Monday morning. Overcast all day, cool breeze, occasional showers, easily avoided. The forecast had been fine!.

Friday 17 June — Brisbane

Lot of girls in the room this morning. Didn’t get up till half past eight, then did some laundry. Weather fine, twenty degrees by ten o’clock, pleasant breeze. Ambled into town. Offered to help a lady push her stalled car uphill (steep too), two other lads came over to help but she managed to get it started (thank goodness).

Took watch into jewellers (Prouds), watchmaker out to lunch, leave watch for assessment, come back at one. Walked round the back of Roma St, photographed the railway yard, watched the shunting, back to jewellers. Seal damaged, probably when battery changed, some rust, $70 estimate, Thanks very much, I’ll think about it.

Upstream to the Jolly Bridge and railway bridge, the over to the Queensland Museum, well presented, train back to Brunswick St, return to hostel, take in washing, walk out Ann St to the Breakfast Creek Hotel where they get their XXXX in wooden kegs which they set up on the bar. It tasted quite good without added gas, and it sold at the standard price. They claim none of their customers has ever complained of a hang-over. Tried some curried chilli peanuts.

On the way back, I stopped into the Waterloo Hotel for some of their own Old and a Kent. Preferred the Kent. South Sydney beating Brisbane at rugby league on TV. Brisbane rather useless in the first half, improved somewhat in the second but still not in the same class as South Sydney.

Saturday 18 June — Third & last day at Expo88

Bridge of the steam tug Forceful

Another Expo day. Took the train round to the Vulture St entrance, got there at one minute to ten, through the gate at quarter past but the queue at the New Zealand pavilion was already at the two hour mark. Walked into Italy, Spain and Greece, these get well queued later in the day.

Steered clear of the Britannia Inn, went down to the Maritime Museum for a cruise on Forceful. We sailed up the length of the Expo site then downstream a bit, not quite as far as Breakfast Creek. On the way down, we went very slowly under the freeway bridge with about four inches to spare above the top of the mast, due to an unusually high tide.

Decided to join the New Zealand queue at quarter past three and got in after fifty-five minutes. Not sure it was worth the wait, but then, fibreglass kauris were never going to match the real thing. Ambled a bit more, went into the Vatican just before closing time, basically an art gallery.

Walked back across town without waiting for the fireworks. A plane with it’s tail on fire flew over while I was in Queen St, making a terrible noise as the sound reverberated amongst the high buildings. It must have been a military plane with it’s after-burner going to thrill the crowds, as there was no report on the news of any accident. Ambled across the Story Bridge and back.

Sunday 19 June — Bribane

Well, time to find new digs for the night. Bowen Terrace was full, so was the YH. Down to Brunswick St station, next train in forty minutes so I walked, passing the Atcherly Hotel, where a single room was available for $35 which will do.

Dumped the bags and walked on to Central where I caught the train out to Redbank to visit the railway museum. This proved to be just a static display with fifteen old and not so old steam engines, including one by Dubbs, one by Neilson and a double Garret. Chap in the office told me about the Brisbane Tram Museum near Ferry Grove, so I bought a T-shirt and some postcards and headed in that direction.

Had to wait nearly an hour at Bowen Hills for a connection, then arrived forty minutes before the museum opened at 1330. Sat under a tree and waited. Not much in the way of facilities, all resources have gone in to restoration and operating on a short stretch of track. Four trams in use, changing after each run, row of buses of varying ages. All rolling stock was in use in Brisbane, no plans to look further afield, no cash to look further afield. Excellent T-shirts but none larger than 95 centimetres which won’t fit me.

Walked back to the station, found a wallet on the way, not much money, left it with the station-mistress as it contained a student rail pass and the railway might be able to trace the owner. Back to the hotel, showered, and went looking for food at Molly’s Food Court on the Mall. German girl at the Gourmet Foods, chef from Cote d’Azur, had Seafood Normandie, very nice. Drifted back to the hotel and bed.

Monday 20 June — South from Brisbane

Up at quarter to eight, off to Roma St, checked in my luggage for Canberra. The railway is trying to restrict the left luggage facility to railway passengers only, produce a ticket when leaving luggage, as they feel there is a capacity problem caused mostly by bus travellers. Some folk in the queue were not too happy. Then I had to return to the hotel to recover my toilet bag, but not the plug.

The Post Office Hotel was selling Tennent’s Extra, brewed “in the Highlands of Bonny Scotland” but the bar didn’t open till twelve. I didn’t wait to disillusion them. Sat in the Botanic Gardens for awhile, watching the river traffic. Dropped my camera, the light meter didn’t work, I cleaned the batteries, the light meter did work. Into another pub with Tennent’s Extra at $1.85, Steinlager at $1.45 and XXXX at $1.25. Guess what I drank.

Round to Roma St, I have got a berth at last, bought a couple of T-shirts, picked up my overnight bag and went on to the platform. On the standard gauge tracks were NSW locos 8047 and 8036 hauling combined baggage/sitting car, five sitting cars, dining car, two sitting cars, two twinettes, roomettes, twinettes and motorail wagon. 44237 was sitting behind the train, presumably having brought the carriages into the station.

I was in car 2, roomette 16, on the coast side but with the dirtiest window I’ve seen so far. Twenty roomettes in the car with two showers at one end and conductor’s room and toilet at the other end. We left the overhead wires at Salisbury, passed through a dual gauge yard spotting 4504, 13xx and a DH shunter in the distance, then it was all standard gauge and over the border.

A lovely run south through the hills. Kyogle at 1715, stopped three times through the station. Casino at 1740. Went to dine at 1900, reasonable meal. Nice looking shunter at 2040, X204, small, squat, centre cab, probably Coffs Harbour. Reasonable display of stars.

Tuesday 21 June — On to Canberra

Broadmeadow at 0440, change of engine I think, if anything the jerky stops and starts got worse. Mostly cloudy, clear bands on the eastern horizon. Hornsby at 0620, people on the platform looked well wrapped-up. On time at Sydney, much of the cloud had dispersed, not very cold, electric locos 8608 and 8648 on front.

The Canberra - Monaro express is a quaint DMU, four car plus three car sets, with a snack bar in the four car set. The front set, cars 14, 13, 12, 11 will stop at Canberra, the back set, cars 17, 16, 15 will go back to Queanbeyan and on to Cooma.

So, the train rattled along, touching 125 kph as far as Goulburn, then somewhat slower down to Canberra. On arrival, I left my bags at the station and walked through a shower or two alongside Lake Burleigh Griffin and into the “city” centre. It’s seems a strange town. The centre is mainly office blocks, with a small shopping centre, presumably serving the needs of the office workers. People live elsewhere. I was not impressed.

Walked back across the lake towards the new Parliament House, decided to skirt it on the sunny side and found a continuous building site round 340 degrees of the building. The light was getting bad so I headed back towards the station, looking for accommodation on the way. Had a beer in the Kingston Hotel, checked costs in a couple of motels, picked up my luggage and went back to the Kingston Hotel and booked in for a couple of nights.

A wander round the neighbourhood shopping centre, decided to dine in an Italian restaurant (it being a cold evening), minestrone, large salad and spaghetti marinara which I just managed to finish, gelato. Back to the hotel for a beer or two while watching the third State of Origin game, Queensland won again.

Wednesday 22 June — Canberra

Slept well. This place is like the Cross Keys only bigger and a bit more expensive. A fine morning, frosty, ground mist which soon cleared as the sun got higher. Breakfast in a local tea shop then up to Parliament House. Approached by the proper entry this time and joined the throng for a wander inside. Very impressive but they shouldn’t allow campervans to park in front of the building.

Crossed the lake and headed towards the War Memorial for a long distance view of both Parliament Houses. The museum at the memorial is very well laid out. Headed into town and found a better pub than yesterday’s. Walked through the university area (Acton) towards the Black Mountain (topped with the Telecom Tower) but decided it was too late in the day to be worth the climb and headed back across the lake towards Kingston.

After a few beers, a Chinese meal in the West End, dim sim, lemon chicken, lychees and ice cream. Booked in for another night (Thursday) at the hotel.

Thursday 23 June — Canberra

Weather similar to yesterday, just like a good February day in Scotland, except that the sun gets higher here and daytime temperatures get up to 12-14 degrees. Went to the National Gallery this morning, the odd thing of interest but I’m not an art gallery person.

This time I did make it to the top of the Black Mountain. Unfortunately, the open viewing gallery was not open (work on the mast I was told but I saw no sign of it), the view from the enclosed gallery was good but we’ll have to wait and see how the photos come out.

Changed £100 for $214.72, the exchange rate is getting worse. Back to the hotel, ate in the bistro, grilled gem-fish fillet, very good. There was entertainment in the bar, a country and western duo, actually quite good. He, apparently, has a radio programme, don’t know what station. They’ve got some records and tapes out but I didn’t buy any. They did an Australian version of the Welly Boot Song, called the Gumboot Song with the words translated into English. So much for the early night.