Canada 1989

Tuesday 17 October — Toronto to Niagara Falls, ONT

The rain was still off when I went out for some milk but by the time I had drunk that and packed, it was on again, though just a drizzle. I scampered quickly along to Eaton’s but was unable to dive indoors as it was not yet ten o’clock and I had to skitter along under the eaves past the store before I got into shelter. Still, not too wet. Down through the tunnels to the station and bought a ticket to Niagara Falls, returning next Wednesday. I failed to get a credit for the late arrival in Toronto as that journey was over five hours and you need to be at least two hours late to qualify. Still, only $27 as against $32 on the bus in June.

I dumped my pack in a locker, changed $100 US into $114 Canadian. Ambled about the shops for a bit then returned to the station for breakfast and some beer before train time. Still wet and raw outside. A couple of folk remarked on my wearing shorts but I explained I was indoors most of the time. Train left on time, two railcars, only one occupied, I presume the other is needed for the morning train back to Toronto.

A few minutes early into Niagara Falls, still raining, so I scuttled across the road into the Royal Hotel to wait till the hostel opened. No bother getting a bed, went to the nearby corner store, only 2% milk so I kept going, the rain was not too bad, long queue in the supermarket so ended up eating in the Mayfair before finding another shop with homo milk.

Back to the hostel, drank some tea (no teapot so I made two cups at once and drank the first fairly quickly) and wrote up this lot. Didn’t think it worth while going to see the illuminations in this weather. Would I go to the States tomorrow?

Wednesday 18 October — Niagara Falls, ONT to Niagara Falls, NY

Still cold and overcast but the rain was off. Not much point in rushing out this morning so I took my time getting up. Laden with all my gear, I ambled along to the Falls and took a few photos on the way back. A liquid lunch in the Niagara Tavern, rather more than I should have, before crossing the Rainbow Bridge. The US immigration official glanced at my passport (which already contained an entry permit) and waved me through. No questions about where I might be going or how long I would stay.

Niagara Falls, Ontario, from Niagara Falls, NY

Headed straight up Niagara St in the direction of the hostel, still a bit early so I went into another Niagara Tavern. Sixty-five cents for about 15oz against a dollar for 7oz in Canada at lunchtime. If only the beer was better.

Along to the hostel, booked for one night, nice place. Went for a walk to view the illuminations from this side in the company of Sean from Washington, DC. Not so impressive as from the other side (not so impressive from that side either) but we didn’t go onto Goat Island so only saw the edge of the Horseshoe Falls.

Thursday 19 October — Niagara Falls, NY

Still cold, raining a bit, almost sleet but not heavy. Booked another night at the hostel, went for a walk along Main St, northwards, to just past the Whirlpool Bridge, then back along as close to the river as possible (which is not very close - a freeway intervenes) as far as the Rainbow Bridge, then into the Winter Gardens and Rainbow Center for a warm and lunch of baked potato.

The Turtle is the Native American Center for the Living Arts, a display of art and artefacts around a central performance space, not much life while I was there. The rain was sort of off but not quite. Stopped for a few beers on the way back to the hostel, $1.20 per bottle, soap was 69 cents and milk 65 cents a US quart.

Friday 20 October — Buffalo, NY

Still cold and grey, not actually precipitating but might at any time. Took the bus down to Buffalo, less than an hour, fare $1.60, route goes across Grand Island and it looked like even the bus paid the toll.

Quite a nice place, Buffalo, still got some fine old skyscrapers and room to stand back and admire them across wide streets and open squares. Also street cars, new, along Main St and out to South Campus wherever that might be. Free along Main St but I didn’t find out about that till the rush hour. Walked along the lake-front, all shut up for the winter. A very chilly wind blowing off the lake, still not raining. Late lunch in the food court in the Main St Shopping Mall, no cheaper than in Canada and certainly no better. Things in shops are cheaper but I didn’t buy anything. Went for a beer or two in a couple of city centre pubs which got quite busy, before catching the bus back to Niagara Falls where I stopped for a few more beers on the way back to the hostel. The price of milk has gone up to 70 cents overnight.

Saturday 21 October — Niagara Falls, NY

Still cold and grey, light precipitation. Set off in the direction of the Amtrak station, rain getting heavier. Had a quick look at the station, modern prefab, and headed back. As the rain was getting heavier, I ducked into a bar for a warm and a few beers. Stuck it out for a couple of hours till the rain almost went off, it had been sleet at one point. Drifted down Pine St and went into the Rainbow Center, fish and chips and tea, they gave me coffee, I took it back, fish and chips was OK, not brilliant and not particularly cheap. Looked around the souvenir shops, bought three T-shirts. Stopped off for a few beers on the way back to the hostel, cloud seemed to be breaking.

Sunday 22 October — Niagara Falls, NY to Niagara Falls, ONT

With just a little imagination, I could see blue patches in the sky. Finally checked out of the hostel, said goodbye to Bob and Nancy, dropped the pack in a locker at the bus station and headed along to the Falls. It was definitely sunny by now but the wind was blowing on-shore and there was a lot of spray around, especially at the edge of Goat Island by the Horseshoe Falls.

For lunch, chilli hot dog, fries and tea, even extra onion failed to make the chilli interesting. Bought some key rings, buy two, get one free, picked up the pack and headed for the border. Was rearranging things on a park bench when a police car drove across the grass and asked what I was doing. They seemed satisfied with the answer and drove off.

Crossed the bridge, Canadian immigration looked at my passport, asked how long I would be staying, and gave me another six months permit. He didn’t remove the US permit, I wonder who will. Wandered along to the Falls, getting a bit warm here, and took some photos.

Along to the hostel and booked for two nights, then went out in search of food, chicken and ribs, reasonable, three warm bread rolls, salad followed by strawberry sundae and tea. Oh yes, half a litre of red wine. Quite pleasant. Bought some milk on the way back to the hostel, seemed expensive.

Monday 23 October — Niagara Falls, ONT

Don’t have to do chores except when leaving, I’d forgotten about that. Headed off for the Skylon Tower, stopped for breakfast en route, for $1.99 two eggs and toast, tea extra not to mention tax. Went up the tower which didn’t open till ten at this time of year, just as well I stopped for breakfast or I would have had to wait. Views quite reasonable, could see Buffalo in one direction and a ship on Lake Ontario, heading for Hamilton. Window cleaners were working, not my idea of a job, safety lines much in evidence.

Back down, ambled out Lundy Lane to the battlefield of the same name (1814, Brits and Canadian militia fought the Yanks to a standstill, Yanks withdrew). On the way back, dropped in to the Maple Leaf Tavern for a few beers, enough to be going on with, but further towards town, passed an establishment I had not noticed before, featuring exotic dancers, so I had to go in there for a few more beers. Dancers more homely than in larger cities, format more Sudbury then St John’s. Staggered back to the hostel and crept to bed.

Tuesday 24 October — Niagara Falls, ONT

Booked another night at the hostel. A bit misty but it looked like the sun would burn through. Decided against hiring a bike, didn’t feel like strenuous exercise. Had a reasonable breakfast, nice waitress, then set out walking downstream, slowly. At Niagara Glen, watched three workmen shovelling and blowing fallen leaves over the cliff. Went down to look at the walking trails, couldn’t find a continuation along the river, so had to go back up.

Kept going past the Horticultural School, nice gardens, power stations on both sides of the river (why do the cables from the US side come across the river?), Lewiston Bridge, which I decided not to cross, the floral clock was flowerless and stopped for winter, and finally stopped at Queenston Heights, where the Yanks lost a battle in 1812 after initially gaining the high ground.

There is a restaurant there with afternoon tea for $5.25 plus tax. Very expensive but all the snack bars were closed for the season. Four tiny crust-less sandwiches, two cucumber (with rind) and tomato, two tuna and syboes, two excellent fresh scones with creamed butter, jam and cream. I asked for and got a second pot of tea. Very civilised. The advertised 15% on US funds so I offered a US $10 thinking they would convert it to $11.50 Canadian and give change accordingly but they converted the bill to US $ and gave me change in US currency. No gain there, just more bits of paper.

Walked steadily back to town, still warm. Bought some milk and orange juice on the way back to the hostel, washed socks and wrote up the last six days in this diary. Must make an effort to keep it up to date for the next few days, but will I? I ought to write some postcards too.

Wednesday 25 October — Niagara Falls, ONT to Toronto

Well I didn’t and I haven’t. The remainder of the story was written on the plane going home, to the accompaniment of a reasonably steady supply of tins of beer recorded by a steady deterioration in my handwriting. But that’s getting ahead. Got up, checked out, dumped the pack at the railway station and walked along to the Falls. Lunch in Victoria park, back to the station, reasonable ride up to Toronto, only four minutes late. Quick tea and a sandwich in the station (no mugs) then walked up to the hostel. I wanted to book for three nights but the new float couldn’t change my $100 travellers cheque so I only booked for one being all the small change I had in my pocket.

Out for a walk, enough money left for a litre of milk, back at the hostel cashed the cheque, went out for a few beers to celebrate in Pete and Marty’s, is that any relation to Pat and Mario’s?, then a curry, Rogan Josh, for which I paid cash so I don’t remember the name of the restaurant, it wisnae too bad but the rice was soft. Back to the hostel and slept through the return of the other occupants of the room.

Thursday 26 October — Toronto

I don’t know why I woke at four o’clock. After that, I slept in fits and starts and got up at half past seven feeling fine and booked for the next two nights. Walked up the road and had some breakfast, followed by a litre of milk, despite the price. Ambled around the town for a bit and then descended into the bar at the railway station. Five pints later, I staggered out and up the street, remonstrating with a couple of motorists who stopped their cars well over the stop line at the lights. Gave in to the craving and bought a packet of Condor at the wrong shop, this one was $7.75 plus tax.

In the early evening, I went into another exotic dancer establishment, exorbitant price for tinnies, got into a small argument with a waitress who enquired whether there was anything wrong with the service when I failed to tell her to keep the 85 cents change off a five dollar bill (three previous waitresses hadn’t bothered about it). I said with the price of beer as it was, I couldn’t afford to tip. She said she only got $4 an hour and no commission. She pointed me out to another waitress but the service did not deteriorate.

Left, wandered up the street, passed two polis cars with flashing lights outside a bank, found some sort of ID card in the street, took it back and gave it to the police, went in to another pub and drank pints for less than tinnies but without the entertainment. Back to the hostel for some kip.

Friday 27 October — Toronto

I don’t know how I managed to come up smiling after a day like yesterday, though it did take me some time to face breakfast, even just orange juice, egg sandwich and tea in one of many Druxy’s delis. Drifted about aimlessly before ending up at Alfredo’s for lunch of fish and chips,the Green Apple in Prince Rupert is still the best.

Then I went walking east along Bloor St, the bridge across the Don Valley bounces a bit when the traffic is heavy, and when I got tired, caught the street car from Main St back into town. Returned to the Imperial Pub, different waitress, very disappointing, but still managed to sink ten glasses of draft, no small feat after yesterday. Back to the hostel for some repose.

Saturday 28 October — Toronto to ...

I’m glad this holiday is drawing to a close, I can’t stand the pace of drinking as I combat the feeling of anti-climax and I’m fed up writing this diary. So, a quick breakfast, pack up, more or less, leave the gear in a locker at the hostel and head off into the hazy sunshine (which is the same as the last three days). A fast food Chinese for lunch, I wish they wouldn’t shatter the chicken bones, it’s an awful nuisance trying to avoid the small bits, (I wish this plane would stop bouncing,) then a few beers in the Silver Rail to steel me for the Hard Rock Cafe experience. Spent money like water, then had a much more pleasant experience buying an illegal shirt in the street from an attractive blond.

Back to the hostel, picked up my pack and rearranged things a bit, then set off by underground to Islington. Sat under a no smoking sign and lit my pipe. I didn’t see it, honest. A chap came past and gave me a look which said quite clearly that this was a no smoking area, despite the cigarette butts on the ground. So I looked around and saw the sign and put my pipe in my pocket. Several bystanders promptly lit cigarettes.

At the airport, I found the direction signs very confusing and it took me some time to find the check-in desk. There were no window seats available so I settled for an aisle seat, checked in the pack and headed for the bar. Not cheap. Tried a duty free shop but it was for US flights only, not international ones. Through security, the zip on my shorts set off the alarm! Bought some perfume with most of my remaining cash and then discovered the booze counter didn’t accept credit cards. Spent the remains of my small change on beer.

The flight was called, I boarded and turfed out the guy who was sitting in my seat, and we took off, a mere twenty minutes late. Then the pilot announced that we would arrive on time at 0755 which was a bit of a blow as I’d told Mummy that we’d arrive at 0855 as I was myself told by Air Canada.

The short safety film was almost unintelligible, then they showed a tourist film of California and Madrid, what happened to Canada and Britain? I ask myself. One of the entertainment channels has got Peer Gynt on it but the pilot interrupted it to announce the imminent arrival of the film, before we’d even finished dinner, which was reasonable for airline food, no choice, no menu, only one glass of wine, only one cup of tea. The Channel No 5 and the whisky were cheaper on the plane than they were in the terminal, memo - don’t buy duty free at Toronto.

So I sit through the night, writing up this diary, the odd spell of turbulence explains the rougher patches of writing or at least that’s my story, they’ve closed the bar and its only half past two, or is it half past six? Still dark outside. Methinks it’s time to put the real money back in my wallet.

Sunday 29 October — ... Scotland

It was a lovely morning in Scotland. By the time I had cleared customs, without any difficulty, it was after half past eight. As I had no change in my pocket, (it was in the pack that got nicked in Quebec,) I bought a phone card and tried to phone home. No answer. They must be on the way. I started towards the door, intending to wait outside, when Daddy walked in. Home at last.