Canada 1989

Sunday 24 September — Banff to Calgary

Weather still fine, a “natural” breakfast in the cafeteria, same as yesterday, no salt in the oatmeal. A last walk by the river, wrote up some of this, then back to the station. 6434 and 6308 hauled a steam generator, combined baggage/roomettes, two coach, Skyline, three sleepers, diner, two sleepers and observation car and only thirteen minutes late. Seats enough. The line follows the Bow River all the way to Calgary. No wash this time, it must be only the westbound train that gets it. Walked slowly to the hostel and booked in for three nights. Walked round the town in the evening, not much doing, pubs shut.

Monday 25 September — Calgary

Calgary plaza and town hall

Weather still fine. The hostel sells cheap tickets for the Calgary Tower so I bought one and went there. As usual, things were a bit hazy in the distance, I couldn’t see the Rockies but took some photos anyway. Back at ground level, finally decided to do something about the shoes, looked about a bit and ended up with a pair of Reebok walking shoes for $75, no tax in Alberta. Also bought a bus pass which I might use tomorrow.

Into a pub for lunch, two small pints of Big Rock Drummond Dark and teriyaki chicken salad.

I decided to photograph the westbound Canadian going through the washer, the train is running late so I had a pint to pass the time before CP Rail 3050 and VIA Rail 6427 and 6635 appeared hauling the usual collection of carriages. While I was taking the photos, a girl approached me and asked if I could help as she was having a problem starting her room-mate’s car (I was standing in a car park, you see). I’m no mechanic so it was just as well she was using the wrong key.

Back for another beer in the Fox and Firkin, adjacent to the pub I’d been in while waiting for the train, where a pint of Rickard’s Red was only one dollar, special on Mondays, so I had a few more. Time for some exotic dancers In the Spotlight Club, nothing special on stage but the private dancers scattered around gave me a crick in the neck. A full length catwalk along each wall, just go sit down across from the girl of your choice, pay and be entertained. I didn’t know which way to look at times.

Tuesday 26 September — Calgary

Weather still fine. Had breakfast in an establishment called the Burns Cafe because it is at the bottom of the Burns Building. In the evening it’s the Sorrento Restaurant or some such. In The Bay, I bought some handkerchiefs, cheap but reasonable quality, no fancy packing.

Then I set out on the C-Train up to Whitehorn, back to town then up to the University, back through town and down to Anderson where I went for a wander through the local, substantial shopping mall. Took a bus from Chinook round the circle past the University to Whitehorn, lots of scholars got aboard on the last leg, obviously they don’t have limits on the number of standing passengers here. C-Train back into town, bought an expensive packet of Condor and dined in the Little Bangkok restaurant. I’ve always thought Penang was in Malaysia.

Wednesday 27 September — Calgary

Weather still fine. Bought another couple of nights at the hostel. Meandered through the town, bought some fruit and nuts to nibble, cheap but a bit stale, wandered through the Devonian Gardens, two and a half acres under glass four floors above street level and very nice. While looking from the window there, noticed smoke issuing from some roadworks, apparently the flames were coming out at the other end of the block. Found out later that the fire started when sparks from a cutting torch ignited the insulation on electrical cables causing a major downtown power cut and a gas leak under Banker’s Hall, not to mention the traffic disruption.

At lunchtime, I found myself near a pub called Dickens, where the barman was a long ago Mancunian. The Yorkshire stew was good enough but the pud tasted more like eclair. Apparently the recipe was originated by a Russian who has since moved on. Beer was Big Rock, OK.

Lots of poms in the hostel, I drifted back to the Spotlight Club, seems private duos are possible but a bit boring, merely synchronised writhing. Ran out of time and scarpered back to the hostel.

Thursday 28 September — Calgary

Weather still fine. A bit peckish this morning so I had a large breakfast in the Piccadilly Grill before going to the Glenbow Museum. They’ve got a very well presented mineral display. An unremembered pint of beer, probably in the Unicorn, then mediocre fish and chips in a food court somewhere in the +15 system, then back across the railway tracks to Electric Avenue (11) and the Fox and Firkin but it seems their two for one policy on Thursdays does not apply to their better beers. Back north again for more beer in Fagin’s, electronic piano music so moved on to the other exotic dance palace on Seventh , no distractions in the background so after a couple of jugs, back via a Jamaican roti to the Spotlight Club till it was time to rush back to the hostel.

Friday 29 September — Calgary to Edmonton

Weather still fine. Dragged myself out of bed. Serious deliberations but I’m spending too much on beer here so it’s time to move on. Along to the bus station and bought a Greyhound ticket to Edmonton. Was offered Calgary-Edmonton-SaskatoonWinnipeg-Toronto for $121 but I want to go to Regina too and I’ve still got some credit for the train, enough for Winnipeg-Toronto I think, so I settled for Edmonton meanwhile. Express service, non-stop to South Edmonton, complimentary juice, coffee and newspapers on boarding, orange juice was enough for me. Only a couple of empty seats. Nothing exciting en route.

Left the pack at the bus station and wandered around a bit. Went into the Russian Tearoom for lunch, nice enough but the staff seemed very disorganised. Found a source of Condor, Ready Rubbed only, reasonable price, UK packaging (cf Banff). Picked up the bag and went along to the hostel, new assistant called Grant, nice chap, booked in for three nights. I forget what I did in the evening, probably just sat around the hostel, didn’t spend any money except on milk.

Saturday 30 September — Edmonton

Cauld winter has arrived, overcast, temperature about five degrees Celsius, not quite raining. Might as well spend the day indoors, at the West Edmonton Mall. Amazing place, almost 1000 retail outlets, all under one elongated roof, not to mention Water World, Fantasy Land, a golf course, ice rink etc., Tried a Pacific fish, mahi mahi for lunch, not exciting, bought some fudge, Blue jays beat Baltimore Oriels to win the eastern section of whichever baseball league and qualify for a play-off against Oakland for the World Series. Came out, it was starting to rain, bus back into town, boring evening in pubs, persistent light rain.

Sunday 1 October — Fort Edmonton

Cauld winter is still with us. Almost trying to snow, ice on the footbridge across the North Saskatchewan River. Decided to head for Fort Edmonton anyway, it’s only open on Sundays at this time of year and next weekend is the end of the season. Followed the river for a distance, then cut up to Strathcona and walked along roads, cutting a corner. Thought about breakfast but didn’t do anything about it.

Downtown Edmonton from above a sports centre

Almost two and a half hours to reach the Fort, I’m sure it was nearer three and a half last time when I followed the river all the way. This time, I paid to get in, had lunch in the Jasper House “Hotel”, quite nice, ambled around a bit, rides on the train and the tram, whole place quite nice. The chap playing the pipes had been in Scotland in August. Went for the 1610 bus back to town but it didn’t appear so I set off walking. Another variation in route to avoid boredom. Wandered along Strathcona main street this time then into downtown for steak and ribs en route to the hostel. Weather much improved.

Monday 2 October — Edmonton

Sunny but cold. Decided to stay at least another night. Went up Vista 33 in the AGT Tower, hazy, smog on the horizon. It is possible to see thirty-nine kilometres on a clear day, today the limit is about fifteen. A few beers for lunch, exotic dancer, sort of, then ambled about in the vicinity of the Legislative Building for a while. All the fountains were drained, winter must be getting close.

Held out till Happy Hour before going in to another pub, the Dickens, drank Rickard’s Red, “cheese fingers” turned out to be cheese cubes deep fried in batter. Still a bit peckish, went into almost a cafe Chinese restaurant, soup and Szecwan beef, not bad.

Tuesday 3 October — Edmonton

Sunny and cold. Booked in for another night. Headed out for the Provincial Museum, stopping for breakfast en route, Bumsteads or something, pretty average. The museum was quite good, small special exhibit on Northern Alberta Railways, wildlife dioramas, usual early settler stuff, minerals not as well presented as at the Glenbow in Calgary.

Carried on out towards Jasper Place in search of exotic dancers, which I found, much better than yesterday and cheaper beer. Had lasagne for tea in an Italian version of Grandma Lee’s, very nice, then caught a trolley bus back into town. Why does a cake of soap cost fifty-five cents here and ninety-nine in Banff?

Wednesday 4 October — Edmonton to Saskatoon

Still sunny and cold but it was time to move on before I became a fixture. Made no serious attempt to catch the 0800 bus so had to hang around till 1330. Ambled around, bought some tobacco and a map of Saskatoon and Regina. Tea and a cheeseburger in A&W did not impress, maybe I should have tried their root beer though I didn’t think much of the root beer I tried in LA in 1987. Plenty time left so I went into the Grand for a few glasses.

Two buses loading, one for Saskatoon, one through to Winnipeg, travelled more or less together all the way. Tea break in Lloydminster, didn’t have any, photographed the grain elevator and a North Alberta Railway liveried loco with a CN number. Then a smoke break at North Battleford. It was dark when we arrived in Saskatoon. Met a chap in the bus station who’d left Edmonton two days before and was now waiting for the overnight bus to Winnipeg. Round to the Patricia Hotel which offers cheap accommodation for hostellers, me and another guy in a four bunk room, private bath but no shower. The other guy sat staring out of the window, smoking, very odd. He made a phone call in French while I was in the bath.

I went out, checked out a couple of taverns, the one in the Senator Hotel was very nice, had fried liver and onions for tea, returned to the hotel intending to have another couple of beer in the bar there but it was wall to wall people so I retired but the noise from the bar kept me awake till one thirty. (Which is why the accommodation is cheap for hostellers.) After then, I slept like a log.

Thursday 5 October — Saskatoon

The other guy’s phone call has appeared on both our bills. I denied any responsibility and it was no problem. Booked in for another night, the good weather is expected to last till the weekend so I was in no hurry. Off for a walk up and down the river valley, the wind was very cold on the heights in front of the university. Police frogmen in the river just below the weir.

Lunch in the Fisherman’s Net, French onion soup and seafood pancakes, very nice, but they brought the pancakes before I’d finished the soup. Walked around the town in the afternoon, not a lot to see, then had a few beers before returning to the hotel. Room to myself tonight.

Friday 6 October — Saskatoon to Regina

Well, I took my pack along to the bus station and bought a ticket to Regina. Someone was filming something in the bus station, I kept out of the way. Passed the morning with another walk around the town and the riverside parks, had tea and a “healthy” sandwich in a pleasant diner opposite the Bessborough Hotel, then another, less satisfactory, in the bus station cafeteria.

More people than seats on the bus so the first bus left early and stayed ahead of schedule into Regina. The countryside was flat, except for a man-made pimple beside a man-made lake, probably a reservoir, which is the Saskatchewan Skiing Centre. The only hills on the road was where we crossed the Qu’Appelle Valley.

At Regina, I found the hostel before it opened and sat on the verandah smoking my pipe. This hostel was once the home of somebody famous and the ground floor rooms have been restored to resemble the public rooms of a house of that period, very nice but a bit daunting. Kitchen and dining room in the basement. No-one else around. Out for a walk, not a lot of pubs, stuffed boneless trout for tea in a family restaurant, not impressed. More people around when I got back to the hostel.

Saturday 7 October — Regina

A quick walk over to the Wascana Centre to photograph the Legislative Buildings across the lake, then around the town though there is not much to it. A couple of mugs of Big Rock Traditional, expensive, strange thing in that establishment, they sold pints of English beer but half litres of Big Rock. Ambled around a bit more, here and there, then had some more beers in a couple of establishments before returning to the hostel for a wash before going forth again in search of food, having refused an offer of a lift towards Toronto tomorrow.

Came across a curry shop, East Indian cuisine, chicken massala, very tasty, not too hot, but on the bone, a nuisance. Samosa were reasonable. Service slow, but all in all a pleasant meal.

Sunday 8 October — Regina

Still sunny and cold. Booked another night at the hostel and then went for a wander in the park, the Wascana Centre, largely man-made, where a deliberate policy to encourage the Canada geese to use it as a stop-over on their migration has been a great success. I was disappointed that they didn’t all take off while I was there, so no darkened skies. Walked as far as the Trans Canada Highway before returning down the other side over a man-made hill.

Into the Natural History Museum, nice exhibit on the geological history of the area, nice wildlife dioramas, nothing else. Down the Devonian Pathway along the riverside to Dewduey? then back by road into town. Lunch/dinner in Granny’s, why not, then evening in the hostel reading sci-fi novellas.

Monday 9 October — Regina to Winnipeg - Thanksgiving (Canada)

Got up at half past six, with difficulty, gathered my things and crept downstairs and out the back door. Along to the bus station in cold but clear weather. Bus left a few minutes late, sunny, but as we went along the road, cloud gathered and a strong wind was blowing when we stopped for morning tea. Lunch stop at Brandon, no elevators, twenty minutes early into Winnipeg.

I walked to the hostel the long way via Portage, Main and Broadway. Bill the warden said “You’ve been here before”. Dined at Mother Tuckers, I don’t like Pumpkin Pie.

Tuesday 10 October — Winnipeg

Wandered aimlessly around the town, took some photos across the river, the Forks was now open to the public but the shopping centre is closed on Tuesdays. Found the pub where you can run up a tab and then pay by credit card so I sank a few beers and ate some potato skins. I wonder what they do with the rest of the potatoes. Left in time to go buy a box for posting things home. Expensive! Back at the hostel, packed the box, it holds less than I expected, maybe I should have got the larger size. The packing tape I bought in Edmonton proved useless, the sticky stuff stuck to the top of the next layer, had to use the bit of string that held the box flat, and some shoelaces.

Wednesday 11 October — Winnipeg

Postage is expensive too. Walked out along Wellington St to Assiniboine Park, sunny but windy. Almost everything is closed but there was a snack bar at the zoo for lunch. The bears looked a bit happier than they did in late June, perhaps because the pandas have gone.

Heading back to town, stopped at the Fox and Hounds, XXXX was $4.50 a pint so I switched to glasses of draft at eighty-five cents each. John C MacLeod told me most of his life story, including overhearing an old lady saying “poc m’a h-on” to his grandfather when he was about six. I told him what it means, he was fair tickled.

Followed backstreets and parks back to the hostel, mostly not quite on the riverside. Went to a bar in the evening with a Kiwi, an Aussie and a Malaysian girl who spoke excellent English.

Thursday 12 October — Winnipeg

Still sunny. I went down by the waste ground between the railway and the river to photograph the departure of the eastbound Canadian hauled by 6455 and 6626, fifteen minutes late, and then walked downstream (which is north) for a bit along the Red River bank before turning inland alongside the CPR yards. Found a small cafe for lunch, just soup and a burger but they made their own “chips” - what we would call crisps. I don’t think I’ve had fresh made crisps before, you can stick a lot of salt on to them. Found a pub, the draft was terrible, moved on.

Back in town, bought a ticket to Toronto for Saturday, got credit for half my roomette all the way from Halifax to Vancouver, so I had to pay just $30.50 instead of $162. Into another pub, no adverts outside but there was an exotic dancer, just one, it was her last turn, not very good, she was bored, the audience was dead, still, it proves I was wrong to think there was no exotic dancing in Manitoba.

Bought milk and a sausage on the way back to the hostel. I was asked to change dorms to allow for a group of Yanks who had arrived, which was a good thing as they were pretty noisy.

Friday 13 October — Winnipeg

I spent a certain amount of time considering the question of souvenirs but ended up doing nothing. There’s not much variety available, presumably they don’t expect many tourists at this time of year. However, it was just as well to stay indoors and avoid the occasional spots of rain from the overcast sky.

The shopping centre at the Forks was open, but not very, as there were still some empty spaces and temporary arrangements. Had lunch in the cafeteria in The Bay, salmon pie, not bad, was charged ten cents extra, presumably for the milk and sugar for my tea. Decided to by Fujichrome film for the last few days and was offered a choice of 50 or 400 ASA, nothing in between. Decided on the 400 and bought three for a saving of ninety cents each.

Later in the afternoon, went back to that pub but no dancers. Repaired to the Keg, Friday rush hour, lot of city smoothies discussing the fall in the Dow Jones Index. Frenetic activity behind the bar, poor service, I’m sure they could have been more efficient. Weather improving again, cloud clearing, sun shining, turned into a fine evening. Changed dorms again for a bit of quiet which was at last achieved.

Saturday 14 October — Winnipeg to ...

Couldn’t find my facecloth at first this morning and had to dry myself on my towel. I hope it doesn’t smell when I unpack. Very peaceful after the Yanks depart. Head off for the station in good time only to find that everything is running late, but not by much. Met an English lad who went off to Churchill on Tuesday, his train sat for hours in Gillam with the line blocked by snow, and got to Churchill at half past five, at which time there is not a lot to do except wait for the return journey. He complained and got his pass extended by five days.

We had to wait for the arrival of the Super Continental, hauled by 6447 and 6602, before we could depart with 6409 and 6307 hauling a steam generator, a spare bar/diner, baggage car, two coach cars, Skyline car, three sleepers, dining car, two sleepers and an observation car. Not very full despite the arrival of several passengers on the Super Continental. Tea and a sarnie for lunch, trout for dinner. Gradual increase in cloud as we went east, never very thick. A few beers after dinner, slept adequately but not well.

Sunday 15 October — ... Toronto

Running just a few minutes late this morning having made up half the deficit by Thunder Bay (actually we’d made it up more than once before then but lost it again by over-long station stops) and the rest by White River. Tea and sarnie for elevenses, I decided against lunch.

We were ten minutes early at Sudbury and left on time but, after ten minutes we stopped. Fifteen minutes later, the Montreal train pulled up alongside us, stopped briefly then both trains started and went our separate ways. No other trains in sight, nor any other obstacle. A bit stop-start after that till finally we stopped at Britt and dropped the steam generator. After that, we were an hour late at Parry Sound. We switched tracks at a junction labelled Boyne as we arrived on CP tracks and Reynolds as we left on CN tracks. The weather was deteriorating with some rain but when we got south of Barrie, it looked as if they had had a downpour. We approached Toronto by a different route, arriving at the other end of the station after the rain was off.

I walked up to the hostel and got a bed no bother, the main tourist peak is well past, over in the annex across the road. Out for a bit to eat, Chicago Giros in a Greek restaurant on Younge St, just like donner but grilled and some of it a bit dry. Back to the hostel for an early night (half past ten).

Monday 16 October — Toronto

GO train approaching Toronto Union Station from the west

Clear this morning, sunny even. What to do in Toronto? Head for the CN Tower. Hostel has no cheap tickets but I went anyway to discover that it didn’t open till ten. I walked east along Front St debating what to do next but ended up back at the tower and went up. Once up on the main deck, I discovered that the Space Deck had been closed for two weeks “for routine maintenance” and no-one knew when it would re-open. The main deck is not so good for photography and it’s open level has a net around it of such small mesh that it must show up on any pictures. The souvenir shop was not open either, staff shortage, a bit disappointing all round.

Went into a Chinese for an “all you can eat” buffet lunch, not for the quantity but for the variety. Condor was a bit expensive here, around $7.75, the same as in Winnipeg, but I decided that if I bought one packet and eked it out, it might see me home. I wonder what the price is now in Montreal. Took some photos down around the Skydome, finishing the film just in time as dark clouds gathered. That was the last of the Black’s film so I reloaded with Fuji and dropped eight films in for processing on the way back to the hostel.

When I came up to the surface, it was raining, large drops, so I ducked back underground as much as possible but the last stretch to the hostel was definitely wet. After a bit, back out to the Zanzibar for some serious Toronto exotic dancing. A bit lethargic but lots of it. Rain off.