Saturday 3 June — Glasgow to Toronto
There have been times in my life when I have had cause seriously to question my sanity. This was one such. I’ve always thought it might be nice to see something of Canada but, especially at six in the morning, the prospect of five months there with little idea of where to go or what to do, is a bit daunting. However, having bought the tickets, there is no dodging it.
I got up at an unreasonable hour and did a bit more packaging. My backpack is ready to go but I have to get everything I’m not taking into a reasonable state and disappear it. Paul turned up and we threw the remaining boxes into the loft. Parents went off to mass and I had a bath. By the time they got back, all was ready. A quick breakfast then off to Prestwick. Checked in. Flight might be late. No sign of plane outside, I found out later that it was in Birmingham. A cup of tea together then they went off to visit Kathleen. I went out onto the terrace to watch what there might be, not much, then the flight was called before the plane appeared. A bit of a wait in the departure lounge before boarding. Dryborough’s beer was a ridiculous price so I abstained. I did buy 250 grams of Condor, but I don’t drink enough whisky to make it worthwhile taking up the duty free spirits allowance and then having to carry it around with me.
The plane was a Lockheed L1011, the same as the one I travelled in from New York to London in 1979. We were half an hour late leaving the gate, then, having got lined up at the end of the runway, pulled off back to the taxiway. The pilot informed us that the numbers didn’t add up, though he didn’t say what numbers. Not much happened for a while, then we returned to the runway and took off, now an hour late.
I had an aisle seat on the inside. The two guys sitting inside me were hospital workers on their way to an Aids conference in Montreal but didn’t know the difference between Arran and Ireland. The flight was uneventful, the meal was reasonable and I tried a few Canadian beers without great enthusiasm.
On arrival, still an hour late, the formalities were trivial. Immigration gave me a six months entry permit, pausing only to warn me that if I wanted to stay longer, I should be sure to get it extended before it expired, and wished me a pleasant stay. Customs just weren’t interested. I stopped in the arrivals hall for a smoke and watched the passing people. Outside, I quickly found the transport booth and bought a bus ticket to Islington where I took the subway to Dundas without getting off at East Dundas which is a different place entirely. This is the cheapest way into town and is recommended in the IYHA handbook, though there is a bus direct into town then going round the major hotels. No bother finding the hostel but then my luck ran out - it was full. They consulted their list of alternative accommodations and, discarding those to which they had already sent others that evening, pointed me towards a cheap? ($40) hotel. I managed to get lost en route, it seems that blocks are delimited by major intersections, not minor side-streets, but a convenient police car set me right and I found the place soon after. Booked in for four nights (I don’t like moving my bag every day) and hit the hay.
Sunday 4 June — Toronto
Incapable of an early start. Finally got up at a civilised hour, took a shower and went out about midday. Headed down towards Lake Ontario, passing a bunch of pipers outside the Armoury and having a brief conversation with a girl from Newton Mearns whose friends spotted my Glasgow Garden Festival T-shirt. Drifted along the lake front “admiring” the new condominiums and marinas which are replacing the wharfs. Fair number of people around in the fine weather. A lot of dead fish at the water’s edge. Circumnavigated the Skydome, the new home of Toronto Blue Jays (a baseball team) which has its opening game tomorrow night. Looked up at the CN Tower. Walked back up through the town pausing to admire the railway station, City Hall, court house etc. Bought my first cup of Canadian tea. Milk, sugar and tea bag in the bottom of a polystyrene cup and warm water added. Revolting.
Just before I reached the hotel, I wandered into a small bar. If you offer approximately the right money, the barmaid assumes that the change is a tip. Must watch that. Fell into conversation with Brian from Leeds (15 years ago) who insisted on introducing me to people and giving me the interesting gossip. Pressed to accompany him to another bar where there was live music. Why not. Music much as expected, noisy. Beer slightly cheaper. All in all a pleasant evening, if slightly expensive as I got landed with the bill for the chicken wings as it arrived when everyone else was in the toilet. Must watch that.
Monday 5 June — Toronto
Another late start. I put it down to the jet-lag. Sunny early but clouded over by eleven. Picked a different street to walk down to the lakeside and had breakfast at Union Station at one o’clock. The tea was much better, a small pot and the water was nearly boiling. Ambled around a bit, there is a bar downstairs in the GO-train station (the Government of Ontario subsidises the Toronto commuter lines) which sells pints, albeit a bit expensive at $4.05.
After a few, I walked along Front Street (which was the lake front when this area was first settled) to the CN Tower, “the highest free-standing building in the world”. I didn’t tell them that Brisbane is planning a taller one. Anyway, $8 gets you up to the viewing platforms with souvenir shop etc. A further $2 gets you to the “space deck”, a bit higher up. Good views all round but the visibility was limited, couldn’t see across the lake. Got a bird’s eye view of the Skydome roof opening.
Back on the ground, I ambled through the town and into another pub, the Imperial, near the hostel. Watched the news on TV, very depressing, then a baseball game from the ’dome. Lots of superlatives about the structure but the Blue Jays still lost. Still, the beer was cheaper.
Tuesday 6 June — Toronto
Up earlier today, tried breakfast before eleven. Vegetarian omelette plus trimmings for $4.95 but sales tax and tip makes it more expensive. Passed a girl in the street who was wearing a GGF T-shirt, but I wasn’t. Went down and caught a ferry to “the Islands”, now mainly a large park with beaches, funfair, etc. though still some residential properties and the remnants of a boatyard. Also a lot of dead fish at the water’s edge. A ferryman told me that this is an annual occurrence, every spring. Something to do with changing something as meltwater drains into the lakes. Having wandered around most of the island (gaps between the original islands have been reclaimed), I returned to the city. Walked up Church Street and entered McVeighs New Windsor Tavern. Smithwick’s, Harp and Guinness, all imported from Ireland. After three pints of Smithwick’s, the barmaid (Irish) asked if I was going to continue smoking my pipe. Apparently more than one customer was complaining about the smell. My next pint was my last in that establishment.
After that I found the bus station and bought a ticket to Niagara Falls for tomorrow, nipped into the Youth Hostel and reserved a bed for next Monday and then returned to last night’s pub for another televised baseball match. Apparently they play a series of three or four games on successive nights, same teams, different pitchers and on this occasion, different results. Got talking to a man who came from Edinburgh in 1957 and drank too much. When I got back to the hotel I forgot to arrange for an early checkout (for some reason the desk doesn’t open till 1130) and then found myself lying on the bed, fully clothed at 0420.
Wednesday 7 June — Toronto to Niagara Falls
Not too bright this morning. Not a hangover, just feeling delicate. Just as well I can’t check out till 1130. When I did check out, the manager phoned up for clearance on my VISA card, and got it. I wonder whether they actually check my account or whether they automatically clear any foreign cards that have not been notified as stopped. Anyway, I wandered down to the bus station. The next bus was at 1330 so I just hung about. There was nothing spectacular about the bus, comfortable but with a surprising amount of vibration at speed. The road from Toronto to the International Bridge at Buffalo is called the Queen Elizabeth Way. It cuts the corner at Hamilton, crossing the edge of Lake Ontario on a mixture on causeway and bridge.
The bus station in Niagara Falls has been moved. It used to be along near the Falls but is now in the downtown area near the railway station and the Youth Hostel which doesn’t open till five. I left my bag in the porch and wandered a way along the clifftop road above the river, towards the Falls. However, it being very hot I didn’t go very far before returning to the cool of the porch. At four, a hostel person passed and said there were beds available for that night so I stayed waiting. At five, I booked in for two nights. I wanted to stay longer but they are fully booked for Friday so I’ll have to find an alternative. There is a notice advertising the Empire Tavern, inexpensive, but the hostel person turned up her nose when I enquired about it. Still, I went for a look. It turned out there are three hotels in a row opposite the railway station, the Royal, the Empire and the Europa. I had a beer in each first, the Royal was cheapest, the Europa the dearest but I didn’t like the atmosphere in the Empire at all and I thought the glass could have been cleaner. I’ll give the matter more thought tomorrow.
Next, I wandered along the main street through the downtown area, stopping for a hamburger and tea, then meandered along Victoria Street towards the Falls area of the town which is a bit of a tourist trap. There is, however, a buffer - a park - between the town and the Falls themselves, which provides some protection for natural spectacle. And spectacular it certainly is. Lots of water, spray, noise. As it was dusk by now, I waited for the illuminations. When they came on, I was not particularly impressed, certainly not what the guidebooks had led me to expect. Just white light at first, a few spotlights shining at the falling water didn’t make much difference. I was soon bored and headed off towards the hostel but when I looked back, the lights had changed colour. Apparently, it takes fifteen minutes to warm up before the colour show starts but then the colours only change about every ten minutes and the lights are at such a distance that it doesn’t seem terribly effective.
Thursday 8 June — Niagara Falls
There was a noisy exodus from the dorm at six in the morning. I discovered later that an early start is necessary to catch the morning train to Toronto. I stayed in bed till half past seven and had the facilities to myself at that time. I settled for a couple of cans of juice for breakfast - I hadn’t bothered organising any food yesterday.
At half past ten, Sylvia, one of the hostel staff, led an informal tour of the Niagara River gorge downstream of the Falls, just myself and a couple of girls, one from Germany and one from Austria, who understood each other most of the time. Along the top of the gorge to the whirlpool then down a track to the waterside. The mossies were murder in the woods but absent at the water’s edge. There was a chap fishing, we saw some fish jumping and they looked a reasonable size. I tried to skim stones but the water was too choppy. Back up to the clifftop through the mossies and along past the other end of the cable car to the snack bar at Niagara Glen. Unfortunately a school bus had arrived just before us. I settled for a drink of water - Sylvia and the two Teutons waited over half an hour for service, which seemed a lot as they only bought cola and chips. Apparently, chips liberally smeared with ketchup is a standard Canadian snack. On the way back, the mossies were not quite so bad but I still got a couple more bites including one through the shoulder of my T-shirt.
When we neared the hostel, I nipped into a cafe for a cup of tea. I needed it! A quick pub crawl along Bridge Street then a “special” hamburger, French fries and tea for tea. Compared with yesterday, “special” seems to mean a double ration of tomato. Got some stuff to deal with mossies - both repellent and stuff for the bites. Wandered back down towards the Falls in the evening, again.
Friday 9 June — Niagara Falls
I checked out of the hostel as soon as the office opened, leaving the pack to pick up later. A litre of milk on the hoof was an adequate breakfast as I headed for the Rainbow Bridge to cross into the USA. The Canadians have a turnstile at their end, 10 cents each way. US Immigration asked my country of citizenship, looked at my Canadian visa, asked how long I wanted to stay in the US, filled in a form, half of which they stapled into my passport and said “Enjoy your visit”. The entry permit is valid for six months and me just here for the afternoon.
I drifted in a leisurely manner along the clifftop to the American Falls, then crossed to Goat Island which is between the two falls. It got its name one winter when, after a particularly severe spell, the livestock grazing on the island was reduced to one goat. In general, the views are better from the Canadian side but, for some reason, I get a stronger feel of the power of nature when standing at the top of a waterfall watching the water going over the edge. Back on the mainland, I went up and down the Observation Tower. At the base of the tower there is a landing stage for the Maid of the Mist and a path along to the bottom of the American Falls and then about half way up the side. A bit damp there. The park around the falls is larger than on the Canadian side.
Returned to the town for a late lunch of taco salad, reasonable but nothing to write home about. While eating, the wind got up and there was the odd spot of rain when I came out. Went looking for a pub but had to duck into a hotel bar when the rain became serious. It went off after a couple of glasses of beer so I headed back towards the border but had to seek shelter again, this time in an establishment which looked like it became a disco bar in the evenings. No draft here so I had to make do with bottled Budweiser for the same price as Canadian draft. Terrible stuff but it’s the only American beer I can ask for by name. After a bit, the rain showed no sign of letting up so I just had to get wet. An umbrella does not keep the legs dry. Canadian immigration did not remove the piece of paper from my passport, apparently it is valid for repeat visits within the six months. I suppose the records will show that I have been in both countries at the same time.
The Royal Inn was full so I booked into the Hotel Europa before picking up my pack from the hostel. There is no plug for the sink or the bath, and no shower curtain, so I used a sock for a plug while washing myself and my trousers in the bath. Spent the evening watching telly.
Saturday 10 June — Niagara Falls
Slept well, despite the disco downstairs. Watched the kiddies cartoons till nine o’clock then returned to the hostel to book in for a further two nights and dump my gear. Headed for the Maid of the Mist but long queues, not surprising it being Saturday, so I wandered on up past the Falls a bit, returning through the gardens and glasshouse. A few beers in the Niagara Tavern, only a dollar but smaller glasses, watching the Blue Jays lose to Detroit. Their new stadium is not doing them much good. I think I’m beginning to understand some of the rules, it’s slightly more interesting than cricket. Returned to the Maid of the Mist and found that the queue had evaporated so I went for the trip. Well into the spray and grateful for the waterproofs. For tea, a pizza at ’Mother’s’, one of the deep pan pizzas, I think I prefer the flat ones. Back to the hostel for an aimless evening and an early bed.
Sunday 11 June — Niagara Falls
Got up at the back of seven and went for a shower. The toilet was blocked. The security guard knew where to look for a mop and plumber’s cup so I was able to clear the blockage and the overflow. Went out at eight o’clock and headed for the Skylon Tower. Excellent views over the Falls and in the other direction though there’s not much of interest there. Back down to the Falls again then all the way down to the Whirlpool. The Royal is charging $3 for admission and entertainment so I had one beer in the Empire. Definitely don’t like this place. The barman has bad breath.
Soup, chicken and chips for tea in the Mayflower then sat in the sun for an hour writing this before returning to the hostel for a shower. Sat around chewing the fat with various folk then wandered up with Mark from Melbourne to view the illuminations. Not very impressive really, seven and a half minutes on each colour, a bit static. Back to the hostel, the drinks machine swallowed up my 55 cents again, decided to retire. The toilet is blocked again. Informed Kevin, apparently this is a regular problem, just old, inadequate drains. While we were discussing this matter, some idiot used the bog! Kevin cleared the blockage, I mopped the floor.
Monday 12 June — Niagara Falls to Toronto
A mob from Utah State Uni (postgrad course) continued to whinge noisily, while taking turns in the shower. Luckily they did not block the bog. I checked out sharp at nine o’clock and headed for the bus station. One of the better cups of tea (which is not saying much). Couple of roadworks on the way up, ten minutes late at Toronto but who cares. Dumped the pack in a locker and wandered around the town. Bought some oatcakes and a Polish sausage in Marks and Spencer’s and ate some for lunch. A beer or two here and there then picked up the pack and checked in to the hostel. Back to the baseball pub but the game was not on the telly, so watched McGuyver! Shades of Saturday nights in the Carlton in Auckland. Wasn’t charged for the last beer so I left the price as a tip. I’m going to have to take a hard line on this tipping, I just can’t afford it.
Tuesday 13 June — Toronto
The hostel door is open till 0200. At 0130 some English voices (Manchester and Selby) made a considerable racket coming in then closed the window to keep out the noise of the early morning trams! Anyway, I slept all right and was awakened by trams at a reasonable hour. I wandered west towards the tram barns at Sunnyside, which I had observed from the bus to and from Niagara Falls. Weather was overcast but still warm so I walked slowly. Passed a disco - the Tropicana - in West King St. which advertised female dancers all afternoon, of which more anon.
Anyway, I walked out to the depot, not much movement being mid-morning, then drifted down to the lakeside, crossing the railway line, expressway and boulevard on a long footbridge (4 tracks, 12 lanes of traffic) before reaching Budapest Park. Ate an early lunch of oatcakes and the rest of the ham which I bought yesterday then drifted back along the waterfront to the Exhibition Grounds where nothing is happening except the erection of stands and barriers for some future event. There’s a Marine Museum with an old tug Ned Hanlon in a dry dock outside but it was not open so I’ll save it for a later date. Ontario Place, a futuristic pleasure centre has a frigate or something but I ignored that too.
The sun started to come out as I walked back towards the pub with the dancers. I went in about quarter past two, another dozen folk in there. A girl came on about half past, familiar format dancing to three tracks but the tracks are longer than in the UK, about four minutes, and she had all her clothes off by the end of the second track and spent the third one writhing on the floor. Most of the other customers departed after that and that was the end of the action for the afternoon, apart from a “table” or “private” dance which took place in a corner that I couldn’t quite see into. Watched the Dubin Enquiry on TV, got bored and wandered off at the back of four, sun fading again. Drifted up to Bloor and on the way back dropped into another pub. Didn’t stay long, not my sort of pub, a lot of customers seem to be good friends with each other. A quiet evening in the hostel, early to bed. The noisy English were still there.
Wednesday 14 June — Toronto
Still overcast this morning but pleasantly cooler (16C). The price of milk has gone up 20 cents overnight. I’ll shop elsewhere tomorrow. I have failed to raise any enthusiasm for training up and down the Montreal - Toronto - Sarnia corridor so might as well start my first Canrailpass with Saturday’s departure for Winnipeg and Churchill. Down to Union Station for the preliminary paperwork. The chap in the travel centre complained of overwork and it wasn’t really his job as he issued the pass and the pre-arranged tickets, then directed me to the ticket windows to book my further travels. The man there seemed to think I should have brought the whole transaction to him in the first place. Anyway, I made bookings for Winnipeg to Prince Rupert and back. That should keep me going for a while.
Then a bit of aimless wandering took me through the University area and past the Provincial Parliament buildings in Queens Park to find myself at lunchtime in the vicinity of a chip shop called Alfredo’s (on Younge) which does a very decent haddock and chips. More aimless wandering brought me to the Wheat Sheaf, allegedly the oldest pub in Ontario. Nothing special, a bit expensive. Then I cut through various back streets but failed to find any more pubs before I arrived back at the hostel for another quiet evening.
Thursday 15 June — Toronto
It rained during the night but it was off when I emerged. I couldn’t be bothered looking for another milk shop. Booked in for another night then wandered out. The downtown skyscrapers were disappearing into the mirk. The pod on the CN Tower was barely visible. There was steam rising from the air conditioning plants on other buildings. I hope I don’t catch Legionnaire’s Disease. A depressing sort of day. Wandered around doing not a lot. Had lunch in the Rotterdam Brewery, a small independent doing some good ales. They have over 300 bottled beers from around the world, only Steinlager from NZ, Coopers and Swan from Oz, Smithwicks is listed under GB. Scotland is listed separately but Campbells is brewed in Belgium, I’ve never heard of Dundas, who knows what MacMasters is, which leaves McEwans Scotch Ale as the only one that might be a genuine Scottish beer and I suspect that it’s brewed in Newcastle.
The afternoon was equally unmemorable. I got lost in the maze of shopping concourses below street level, all linked from block to block. Had my first hot dog from a street vendor. Reasonable. Certainly a better sausage than any I’ve tasted in the UK. Ended the evening back in the Imperial.
Friday 16 June — Toronto
The morning was overcast, like yesterday. Decided to attend to a few errands. Tried a few camera shops in search of film. Since Agfa is not available, I’ve decided to try Fuji but it is all process paid, only the Kodak Ektachrome is available without processing. After a few discussions I decided to buy the Fuji and see how the processing goes later. Found the Government Map Centre in Younge St (after a few diversions). Even they don’t have the type of map I want so I had to settle for what they did have. At least now I know what is not available. attempted to photograph trams but pedestrians kept getting in the way. Walked east along King St. It merges with Queen St. just before it crosses the Don Valley. Just over the bridge, I dropped into the Edwin Hotel for a beer. They had a dancer every hour on the hour until, just before 8pm some guys started setting up for a band so I decided I’d had enough and left. Back at the hostel, a Japanese girl was eating pizza and I was suddenly hungry so I had to go back out for a pizza slice myself, I’d never have managed a whole one. Younge Street was a veritable hubbub.
[ next chapter ]
John Reynolds — March 2014