Australia 1988

Monday 4 July — On the Indian Pacific

Intermittent sleep, lots of bangs and clatters and the suspension is not too effective. Still, I rested well. Up shortly after seven, showered and repaired to the lounge car for complimentary early morning tea. Discussed the price of fish with one of my table companions from last night, the Australian not the Welshman.

We were twenty-four minutes late at Menindee but only a few minutes late at Broken Hill and I was caught in the middle of my breakfast and unable to get out to watch the engine swap. On the way out of the station, I could see the end of an engine sticking out of the engine shed, looked like another Class 80, but I couldn’t see the number. Don’t know what was up front now, assume a couple of GMs.

The weather was miserable, overcast, misty, some rain and it looked as if it had been raining for some time, there was a lot of mud and standing water by the lineside, the Menindee Lakes had had a fair amount of trees in the water.

We were more or less on time crossing into South Australia, but then took two and a half hours to get to Olary, a distance which should have taken an hour. Signal failure compounded by speed restrictions, possibly caused by wet weather, meant we travelled most of the way at fifteen kilometres per hour. Peterborough came after lunch instead of before, one and three quarter hours late. I nipped out to check the engines and found my old friend GM1 plus GM35. Occasional spot of rain in the air.

Once on our way again, a blink of sun but it didn’t last. Losing a bit more time, they announced that passengers travelling beyond Adelaide would be fed at five o’clock, and we were. They had most of the menu for dinner, but the desserts were left-overs from lunch. Still, fruit salad again was quite acceptable.

Out to stretch my legs at Adelaide. They were having a bit of bother filling the water tanks on the dining car, the water was coming out as fast as it went in but the tank definitely was not full, so I watched and made comments. The problem was resolved when they put the train brakes on! After the engine was coupled on, they had pressurised the water system but left the brakes off. This was discovered when the shunter added some motorail wagons and pushed the whole train along a bit. There was another problem with the water on Car 7 but the fitter fixed that.

We left Adelaide two and three quarter hours late, back the way we came in so I now had my back to the engine, which would be CL11 as far as Port Augusta. What was now the back end of the train had been modified by replacing the State Rail sitting cars with the Australian National equivalent, the staff sleeper and power car back in, a new spare sleeper and four motorail wagons replacing the one we brought from Sydney.

Apparently, in the west this train is known as the Indian Pathetic because of it’s poor timekeeping. We’ll have to see how it goes from here. At Coonamia, no improvement, Port Augusta, almost three hours late (2357), time lost crossing a freight. American Independence Day had passed un-remarked. Train time went back half an hour but I continued to use CST.

Tuesday 5 July — Still on the Indian Pacific

CL11 was replaced with GM18 and GM21, another old friend GM2 did the shunting necessary to load a few more cars onto the existing motorail wagons. By the time we left Post Augusta, after sitting a good while for no obvious reason while the cloud continued to diminish and more and more stars showed through (as far as I could see through the surrounding lights), we were four hours late.

We had not gone very far before we stopped again, then moved back a bit, then I went to sleep. When I woke, it was starting to get light and I could see the lights of Woomera ahead. There was a derailment at Pimba last Saturday, a freight train, no-one injured, and on my side of the line I could see a dented container and a motorail wagon on it’s side, with the end car looking like it had hit the container! Apparently there were four wagons in a more interesting condition on the other side.

I calculated that we were now seven hours late and still going slow. Clear skies at dawn, gradually clouding over. Seven hours and six minutes late arriving at Tarcoola. We now have GM17 and GM21 on front, GM18 had fuel supply problems and that’s why we stopped outside Port Augusta, to change it. The American couple had a light fitting go on fire in their compartment just before Tarcoola, luckily it went out when they switched it off.

Left Tarcoola seven hours and thirty-five minutes late, crossed the eastbound Indian at Hughes at 1615 WST, it was one hour late at that point, and arrived in Cook at ten to five, we should have been there at quarter to nine.

During dinner, the driver decided to make up some time, with unfortunate consequences for many cups of tea and coffee. I managed to sugar, milk, stir and drink most of my tea without putting the cup down. Along to the bar. The conductor kept insisting that we were seven hours late but he was cheating with time zones, it was really eight. They closed the bar at 2130 WST which was a bit of a fiddle, however with a few spares lined up, the die-hards survived till midnight. While stopped at Rawlinna (for longer than scheduled), GM21 went past the window, having been turned, no sign of the other engine.

Wednesday 6 July — From Kalgoorlie to Albany

I awoke at 0415 as the train crawled into Kalgoorlie and, since we had been promised a short stop, decided not to get up. Engines went past and I deduced that we had arrived behind GM21 leading possibly GM22, I wasn’t sure of the number but it wasn’t GM18. No idea what was on front when we left at 0503, I went back to sleep for an hour.

Up at twenty past six, showered and was about to go in search of a cup of tea when the conductor came along discreetly informing those affected that there would be a first sitting of breakfast at 0715. The girls who had expected to work the bars out of Kal last night were pressed into service as waitresses and a couple of conductors did the cooking.

Quite a lot of cloud about but the occasional blink of sunshine. Luncheon will be served today, starting at 1145, though the conductor was unsure whether there would be a third sitting so there must be a chance of making Perth before two o’clock. Only seven and three quarter hours late at Merredin, and a short stop saved another fifteen minutes. Lunch was soup and a cold meat salad, no dessert. They pushed it through quickly and there was a third sitting but a New Zealand couple took their time getting there and missed it. I was in the bar, talking to another New Zealander from Rotorua, working in Kal. No prospects in farming in NZ these days.

We arrived in Perth at quarter past one, only six and a quarter hours late. Weather showery but mostly bright. I consulted the departures board and considered the options, wait for tomorrow’s bus to Geraldton or take the afternoon bus south to Albany. I decided to go to Albany, despite a forecast of showers in the south west. Why? Why not? Plenty of seats available so I had a couple of cups of tea while waiting.

Off we went, stopping for a half hour refreshment break at Williams, or rather at a small roadhouse on the edge of the settlement so I didn’t see anything of the town. Half an hour further on, at the Arthur River, we crossed the northbound bus and exchanged drivers. It started to rain. On down the road, just beyond Kojunup, an audible alarm went off and we pulled in to the side of the road. Rain off and a starry sky. Low water in the air-conditioner. There was a supply of drinking water at the back of the bus but how to transfer it to the required position? An empty milk carton was recovered from the rubbish but could not be manoeuvred to the filler. A discarded juice bottle proved to be the answer. Twenty minutes later, we were rolling again.

At Mt Barker, the driver asked who wanted taxis at Albany and relayed the message ahead, although when we got to Albany, only ten minutes late, someone asked the same question again. I found the YH at the second attempt, the street it is on changes it’s name before it reaches the main street, a fact not shown on the diagram in the book. I have always known that you cannot trust the number of side streets shown in these diagrams, now it seems that you can’t trust the street names either.

Anyway, the hostel was far from full, I booked in for two nights, got a four bunk room to myself. Nipped out for a quick beer in the nearest pub, didn’t think much of it, the barmaid had a cold and I’d forgotten that the beer in Western Australia is the most expensive in the country.

Thursday 7 July — Albany

Got up before eight, tea and sardines for breakfast - I’ve decided to start feeding myself a bit more, now that I’ll be using hostels continuously (if I can) for a while. Insulted an Irish girl by suggesting that she might be able to get Vegemite in a delicatessen when she got back to the UK.

Went for a walk up and down the street, dodging showers, then headed up Mt Clarence, overlooking the town on the east side. Mostly dry. There is a memorial avenue of trees on the way up, each with a small plate commemorating a local who died in the wars, though all the names I saw were victims of the First War. Near the top of the hill is the ANZAC memorial, the statue is a copy but the plinth is the original, first erected in Port Said but irreparably damaged during the Suez Crisis. The masonry was brought out and re-erected overlooking King George Sound, the last anchorage in Australia of the first ANZAC troopship to go in 1914.

The view from the top was good, distant objects intermittently masked by showers. On the way down, I had to shelter in the toilet for twenty minutes while a downpour passed. Then up Mt Adelaide to “the Forts”, now being renovated and restored as a tourist attraction. Just a couple of gun emplacements with a good view over the Sound, and ancillary buildings for a small army camp.

Down to walk along the foreshore and finally got caught in a shower of some substance, before I could get to the nearest pub. Decided I’d done enough touring for the day and went to another pub where I stayed for a couple of hours.

Then I went shopping. Walked into the supermarket and was confronted with a display of Walker’s shortbread and oatcakes. So, I bought a box of oatcakes, well, I’d been going to buy crispbread anyway. Then in the cheese display, NZ Mainland cheese was a few cents cheaper than what I took to be it’s Australian equivalent, so I bought that too. Also teabags, tomatoes and milk.

Back at the hostel, I dined on one of my NZ freeze-dried foods, beef and spaghetti in tomato sauce, not too bad, before the tomatoes, oatcakes and the last of my Tiger teabags. Wrote up the diary and listened to the news on the radio, a bad mistake, 150 men missing after a North Sea oil rig, Piper Alpha, blew up, 75 survivors in hospital, many badly burned. I could do without things like that. I think I’ll go to the pub.

Friday 8 July — Albany

Up a bit earlier but took longer over breakfast. Booked in for another two nights and expressed interest in a trip to the Stirling Ranges tomorrow. Wandered up the Albany Highway to investigate a couple of camping shops but they had no suitable footwear. Walked up Mt Mitchel, on the other side of town from Mt Clarence. Good views from the top, where there is a look-out tower with a small souvenir shop and tearoom, which proved a better shelter than yesterday’s loo.

Back down, cashed a traveller’s cheque (Australian dollars), and went into a pub for a couple of beers and a bag of crisps for lunch. Down to the front for a visit to the replica of the brig “Amity” where they ask for $1.50 boarding fee which I didn’t pay as it was closed. (You could walk around the deck but that was all.) Into the Residency Museum, free, very nice, simple building, well laid out displays, quite interesting. A couple more beers then shopping, soap (no more railways), toothpaste and some food of types that I can carry around for lunch - dried fruit, chocolate and shortbread (Walker’s of course).

Back to the hostel for tea, freeze-dried chilli con carne, very chilli but the larger lumps of meat didn’t come out too well which is odd as it shouldn’t have had large lumps, just mince. Also some coleslaw, the things I eat to keep a balanced diet.

The YH Southwest Tour came in, only four people plus driver. I didn’t broach the subject of a lift to Pemberton, they seemed an odd bunch, a bit lethargic, maybe they had had a hard day. They kept talking about going to the pub but never got their act together.

Saturday 9 July — Stirling Ranges

Well, there was not much interest in the trip to the Stirling Ranges so that’s off. Gary, the tour driver, suggested that I go with them, so I did. Akitoshi from Japan, Andy from Germany, Monika from Switzerland and Anna from England. Toyota Landcruiser, seats six but the two in front beside the driver were a bit cramped, but there were quite a few grab handles.

Out round the Porongurups, visit a winery - Jinnella, Gary and Andy bought bottles of port. On through the Stirling Ranges to Toolbrunup, the second highest in the ranges at 1052 metres. An hour and a half up, view a bit restricted, not a clear day but most of the range visible, Bluff Knoll, the highest, with a touch of cloud. Occasional blinks of sunshine.

The descent was a bit awkward, muddy and steep below the summit rocks, so I set off first but was soon passed by Gary and Akitoshi. Lunch at the bottom at half past three, spaghetti and meatballs. Visit the Ranger Station, small display including snakes, skinks and a tiny type of possum which only eats nectar, all preserved in jars (of formaldehyde?).

Back to Albany, steak for tea, I washed the dishes. I announced that I was going to the pub, only Gary came along although both Akitoshi and Andy had been talking about it earlier. Quiet few beers, just a little late back at the hostel, I still have the room to myself.

Sunday 10 July — On to Pemberton

The tour had agreed to take me to Pemberton, starting with visits to Stoney Hill, then an inlet where there were some whales, then Cable Beach where there were dolphins, the Gap and natural bridge (cemented for safety) where Andy went down to get a photo and came close to being washed away by a wave, he did get his feet wet. Denmark for lunch, nice spot by the river, I stayed out of the pub.

Half an hour down the road, trail rides. My first time on horseback, and it will be my last. It was all right while the horse walked, but when it trotted I couldn’t get the rhythm and hit every bounce, and when the horse galloped, I was petrified and clung to the front of the saddle, trying to keep my centre of gravity as low as possible which was bad for my back. When the horse changed direction, I came close to pitching off. Never again, at least, not till the next time. Pity really, it was a very pleasant route through the dunes and along the shore.

Boomerang throwing then off to Pemberton where we had stir fry chicken and veg for tea.

Monday 11 July — Pemberton and Northcliffe

Pemberton tram No1 at Northcliffe.

Back to my own devices today. Gary gave me a lift into Pemberton where is a tramway to Northcliffe, using the old railway track which Westrail abandoned in 1986. The trams were built in 1987, modelled on old Fremantle trams but with diesel engines.

A lovely run through the forest, the speed limit on the line is 30 kph but I doubt if we ever exceeded 25 kph. The driver said there is often a kangaroo or two on the line, sunning themselves, and round the next corner there one was. It bounced along in front of the tram for half a minute before it found a gap in the lineside vegetation and vanished into the trees.

At Northcliffe, I went for a walk in the woods to see some fine karri trees, up to seventy-five metres high. Back just in time for the tram. Stop on the way back at the Warren River bridge to look at some she-oaks

The Gloucester Tree

Back at Pemberton, into the pub for a beer or three, bought some milk and set off to walk the nine kilometres to the hostel. I’d barely started when the tour came along and offered me a lift after they had been to the Gloucester Tree. I accepted and went with them. Didn’t climb the tree but took a couple of photos. Nice light. Then we went to the pub! A good few beers later, back to the hostel, a pleasant evening with a wine cask.

Tuesday 12 July — Pemberton

Today I will hire a bike. The fine starry sky had clouded over but it was still dry. Asked Martin, the warden, about public transport to Perth as all I’ve seen is the Westrail bus leaving Pemberton at 0700, which would mean starting walking about 0500. There is nothing else but Martin himself is going to Perth tomorrow, starting at 0600 as he wants to be in Perth by 1000. Door to door, confirm details this evening.

Cycled the nine kilometres in just under the half hour, the tour passed me a couple of kilometres before town. The last kilometre was a good run downhill. Went round to the tram station and bought a T-shirt. Hung around to photograph the tram crossing the road, the cycled out to the Gloucester Tree and climbed it. Formerly a fire-watching post, it was “opened” by the Duke of Gloucester, hence the name. Good views from the top, pity about the weather, still it might have been worse. I was joined at the top by some kids who made the ascent in half the time I took.

Descended carefully and repaired to the pub to celebrate. While there, it started to rain so I had to stay a bit longer and have some more beer. It was just spitting when I finally moved on to the store for some milk then cycled down to the trout and marron hatchery. Marron is a black fresh-water crayfish, found only in Western Australia. $1.50 to enter but the custodian warned me that there were no marron on show - they hibernate when the water temperature falls below 17 degrees (which explains why there are none in Scotland) - so I didn’t go in.

Cycled up the Rainbow (after the trout) Trail to the Big Brook Dam, being developed as a recreational area, then on to the Arboretum. Just as I got there, it started to rain, somewhat dampening my enthusiasm for experimental tree plantations and I headed on towards the hostel.

Got there just after four, lit the fire and put the kettle on. Veronica got a lift back from the tram driver. Five poms arrived in a car. Martin will pick me up at six tomorrow morning. Rain set in in the course of the evening.

Wednesday 13 July — Back to Perth

The alarm went off at half past five, apologies to the poms. It was raining. I crawled out and dragged my gear into the common room, switched on the light only one sock. Went back and checked the floor, no sock. Checked the bag, it was in the bottom.

Martin was a minute or two late, car full of blankets to be cleaned in Perth, me and pack on half the front bench seat, nae bother. A good drive up to Perth, pleasant conversation interspersed with hourly news bulletins, mostly bad, gunmen shooting up Greek liners in the Aegean. Arrived at Newcastle St at two minutes to ten, just in time to book in for the night. I helped unload the blankets (crawler) then headed into town.

Trees in the park behind Government House

How to get to Darwin? At Pemberton, I had found a leaflet for a twelve day North West tour. It spends ten days going north and only two back so perhaps I could take that to Newman. Along to the YHA travel office, bumped into Ric, the warden from Albany, who was in Perth for the same meeting that had brought Martin to town. Fixed up the trip for $500 against the twelve day price of $550, but it is convenient and will get me to some places difficult to reach on my own. Departs 0800 Saturday from in front of the bus station, be there by 0730.

While walking along St George’s Terrace, noticed Hammersley House and went into enquire about the whereabouts of Pendennis Castle, a GWR loco now owned by Hammersley Iron. The doorman suggested asking Maintenance Section, the girl there had seen it at Paraburdoo, thought it might be at Dampier, but go down and ask Personnel, who looked a bit blank but phoned Library and got a positive response. Jenny, the librarian, produced a company glossy which mentioned it and an address in Karratha near Dampier, but was unable to lay her hands on an in-house magazine which she was sure had an article on it. Everyone was very helpful and friendly in the face of what must have been an uncommon enquiry.

A few beers here and there, finishing off in the Court Hotel where the barmaid was from Takaka (Golden Bay) via Hanmer Springs, and one of the customers was from Hawkes Bay. A wino came in with a bottle of wine which he had just bought in the bottle shop and wanted opened. The barman wouldn’t do it, it’s against the law, so I took him outside and did the necessary with my Swiss Army knife.

Back to the hostel for tea, some spare macaroni from Davinia from Harrow, and sat drinking tea and sweating gently in the common room. Might be gliding tomorrow.